Red Nails stakes its claim as a compact but intense test piece in the heart of Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs. This single-pitch trad climb delivers a punch from the start, where the early crux challenges your skin and resolve with sharp, technical moves that compel careful footwork and steady hands. The initial sequence, demanding precise finger strength and unyielding patience, leads directly to a crucial, somewhat old-school piton placement that offers a brief sigh of relief amid the tension. Beyond this, the route eases into a low 5.10 slab, demanding intelligent gear management and balance as you navigate smoothed, less featured terrain towards the anchor.

The rock here has character, offering a slightly abrasive texture that can claw at your fingertips. The slab top-out rewards patient smearing and subtle body positioning. Climbers should come prepared for the skin-testing start but be ready to transition quickly into steady, mindful slab climbing that tests your route-reading skills and mental focus. Exposure is moderate, with the climbing holding your attention through every move.

For gear, a standard single rack suffices, complemented by smaller pro—specifically blue to green aliens—to secure the slab section at the top. The piton, though vintage by today’s standards, still functions as a key protection point and anchor, reinforcing the reach between well-spaced placements. Expect a short approach through Smoke Bluffs’ network of trails with well-maintained paths that wind through forested pockets and granite boulders, setting a grounded tone before the sharp verticality beckons.

Timing your attempt in the warmer months is advised, as the slab can be slick in wet or cold conditions. Early morning or late afternoon climbs benefit from dappled shade, helping preserve grip and comfort. With around 50 feet of climbing compressed into a single committed pitch, Red Nails demands respect and focus but rewards with a clean, rewarding finish and a strong sense of accomplishment within one of Canada’s premier climbing areas. Whether you’re honing your trad skills or pushing hard into 5.11 territory, this route offers pragmatic adventure with well-placed protection and a classic Smoke Bluffs feel.