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Red Lyin' Slab: A Bold Boulder Canyon Test

Boulder, Colorado United States
exposed
roof crux
minimal protection
single pitch
highway proximity
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Red Lyin' Slab
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Red Lyin' Slab offers a compact, bold climb perched above Boulder Canyon’s highway with a challenging roof crux and minimal protection. This single-pitch route demands precision and respect, rewarding those prepared for a raw, exposed experience."

Red Lyin' Slab: A Bold Boulder Canyon Test

Red Lyin' Slab challenges climbers with a brief but intense introduction right from the start. At roughly 80 feet, this single-pitch route sits boldly above Boulder Canyon, with its face staring down onto the highway below. The climb begins at the blasted slab base where the rock is bare and exposed, demanding focus as you prepare to pop over a small roof rated 5.8. The move is the heart of the route — a physical test that separates casual scramblers from confident leaders. Beyond the crux, the terrain relaxes into easier moves, following a quartz crystal-studded dike that snakes upward, guiding your path with natural holds polished by time and weather.

Approaching the slab, the crisp mountain air carries the sounds of traffic just beneath, reminding climbers that every footstep matters. Loose rocks are a real hazard here; one misstep can send shards tumbling onto the road, so precision and control are essential. Protection opportunities are sparse — the slab offers little to hang gear from, escalating the route’s seriousness despite its moderate grade. This is a climb where confidence in your footwork and variables like rope drag become part of the puzzle.

For those considering a top-rope setup, ensure anchors are solid and established above, as traditional protection is minimal. Belayers will find themselves in a precarious stance, often close to the open road, so caution and clear communication are paramount. Alternative options include soloing the slab if you have the experience and mindset for it, but only after thorough risk assessment.

Red Lyin' Slab’s proximity to Boulder—a vibrant hub for climbers—means access is straightforward though the setting is uniquely exposed. Early mornings or late afternoons provide the best light and cooler conditions, as the southwest-facing slab absorbs the sun’s heat quickly. This route is best tackled in dry conditions, with stable rock surface offering the most reliable friction.

The route’s raw, almost confrontational character makes it a quick but memorable challenge for those eager to push their limits on Colorado’s iconic granite. Remember that its X rating means consequences for a fall are significant; the climb demands respect and an honest assessment of your readiness. This is not a climb to be taken lightly but one that can provide a solid test for climbers sharpening their edge and mental steadiness.

In short, Red Lyin' Slab is less about lengthy endurance and more about managing precision, risk, and the edge between control and chaos in an environment that feels alive with movement below and the raw force of the mountain face underfoot. Prepare well, climb smart, and let the rock speak clearly as you ascend.

Climber Safety

Loose rock risk is high on this slab, and rocks dislodged during your climb can endanger vehicles and people below. Additionally, belayers must remain vigilant as their position is dangerously close to traffic. Careful approach and respecting these hazards is critical.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Avoid climbing immediately after rain; the slab surface is slick when wet.

Wear sturdy shoes with good friction to handle the polished quartz crystal dike.

Communicate clearly with your belayer due to their exposed and precarious position near traffic.

Plan your ascent for early morning or late afternoon to avoid intense midday heat on the southwest-facing slab.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 X
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 X rating on Red Lyin' Slab carries more than just technical challenge—the X designation warns of serious consequences if a fall occurs, due to limited protection and exposure above a busy highway. The crux roof at the start is decisive and feels justifiably stiff, demanding focus and skill. Compared to other Boulder Canyon routes, this climb is a quick test of mental control and climbing precision rather than physical endurance.

Gear Requirements

Protection is minimal to non-existent here. Prepare for top-rope setups or soloing rather than relying on traditional gear. Be cautious of your belayer’s proximity to the highway during the climb.

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Tags

exposed
roof crux
minimal protection
single pitch
highway proximity