"Rads For Rookies stands out as a single-pitch sport climb on Nebel Horn Ridge that challenges new climbers with its mix of big moves and steady protection. This accessible yet edgy route combines solid holds with a memorable chockstone finish, offering a practical introduction to the rugged charm of the Flatirons."
If you’re eyeing a climb that mixes approachable moves with a taste of real exposure, Rads For Rookies delivers a genuine introduction without skimping on excitement. Situated midway up Nebel Horn Ridge, just above Fern Canyon in the Flatirons of Boulder, Colorado, this single-pitch sport climb steps into the spotlight thanks to its defining feature: a large chockstone crowning a distinctive chimney. The route cuts a line up the right side of this chimney, marked by four bolts that promise sporty, dynamic climbing with plenty of variety.
To reach the base, you’ll start on a cluster of flat rocks lying on the talus slope, accessed by a short scramble uphill from the Fern Canyon trail. The approach requires focus but rewards you with a clear and inviting launch spot. From this perch, step off onto a crack angled up and right, about 40 feet above the talus, leading directly to the chimney's base beneath the chockstone. This initial section offers a wide crack perfect for placing a #4 cam for protection, while a double-length runner around a nearby tree stabilizes the approach. The first moves climb from a ledge onto big, secure jugs, making the first bolt clip feel straightforward and comfortable – an encouraging moment for those new to the route.
As you ascend, the line grows more playful yet technical. Each bolt guides you through clean rock faces, where the holds shift from large jug-like grips to smaller edges and pockets demanding steady footwork and precise body positioning. While not overly strenuous, it rewards attention to movement and balance, particularly on the upper pitches approaching the two-bolt anchor. The summit anchor, despite its visibly aged slings and carabiners, offers a safe platform to catch your breath and take in sweeping views of the Flatirons and Boulder below before rappelling back to your packs.
Gear-wise, you’ll want four quickdraws for the bolts, your trusty #4 cam for the initial crack, and a double-length runner to manage the tree runner on the slab. Stoppers or small cams come in handy if you choose to set an optional anchor behind the chimney ledge. Prepare for the top anchor to be a little worn, and consider replacing worn gear if possible for yourself and others.
This climb performs best in the morning or late afternoon when the sun shifts, casting comforting shadows over the rock and keeping temperatures manageable. Early summer through fall offers the most stable weather windows, while winter visits risk slick surfaces and cold conditions less suited for this route.
Descent is straightforward: a rappel off the two-bolt anchor returns you safely to the base. Remember to double-check your knots and anchor integrity before lowering. Rads For Rookies balances a playful challenge with accessible terrain, making it an ideal choice for climbers stepping up from gym walls or less-exposed crags but eager to taste the intensity of Flatirons trad sport climbing. Whether you’re climbing solo or leading a small group, it demands respect without intimidation, delivering an engaging adventure with practical beta and solid protection.
The top anchor uses aging slings and rings that should be inspected meticulously before use. The approach involves scrambling over loose talus, requiring careful footing to avoid slips or rockfall. Be cautious when rappelling, verifying anchor integrity and rope management to avoid snags.
Approach from Fern Canyon trail; expect a short but steep scramble to talus rocks.
Clip the first bolt confidently by stepping onto large jugs at the start.
Check and replace old slings if possible before trusting the top anchor.
Best climbed during morning or late afternoon for cooler sun exposure.
Four quickdraws cover the bolt line plus a #4 cam for the initial crack and a double-length runner to wrap the tree on the lower slab. Carry small gear like stoppers for optional anchors and plan to replace worn slings at the top anchor for safety.
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