Pyramid on First Face, Nova Scotia

Sydney, Canada
trad
single pitch
dihedral
roof crack
small pro
mixed face
Nova Scotia
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Pyramid
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Pyramid stakes its claim on the First Face with a single-pitch trad climb featuring a roof-capped left-facing dihedral. The route challenges you with delicate face moves, technical jams, and precise gear placements—ideal for climbers seeking a balanced test of skill and adventure in Nova Scotia's wild coastal landscape."

Pyramid on First Face, Nova Scotia

Rising sharply from the rugged terrain of Nova Scotia’s First Face, Pyramid commands attention with its distinctive roof-capped left-facing dihedral, offering a traditional climb that blends technical challenge with intricate movement. The route makes its approach just right of the dihedral’s base, where a short, exposed 5.9+ wall demands careful footwork and smooth, confident moves before reaching a sprawling ledge. This initial section is lightly protected, urging climbers to carry extra small cams or cheater stones to guard against the vulnerability of gear placements. From this ledge, you make a careful traverse left onto the shattered face, feeling the rock texture shift beneath your fingertips as you pace upward toward the heart of the climb: the dihedral itself.

Here, the first true test awaits — a crux protected by small wires and tricams where jam and layback techniques come into full play. The rock’s angles challenge your balance and grip strength, inviting a rhythm that feels both tense and rewarding as you edge closer to the shelter of the roof. Reaching the outside corner beneath this overhang requires a nuanced exit, moving right on holds that subtly evade your expectation — the second crux of the route. It’s a spot that demands precision and a cool head, sealing the commitment to the climb’s more technical aspects.

Above the roof, the terrain eases but the adventure is far from over. The final stretch offers options to top out fully on the ledge or descend via anchors used by neighboring routes like Sins and Transgressions. The rock’s character shifts along the way, from solid flakes to fractured shelves, rewarding those who prepare with the proper protection and patient technique.

Accessible yet demanding, Pyramid is a worthy introduction for climbers looking to experience Nova Scotia’s traditional mixed face and crack climbing. The route’s single pitch covers approximately 90 feet of complex terrain that tests both gear placements and movement skills. Its location provides a quiet wilderness setting where the wind whispers through the trees and the nearby Atlantic air hints at the region’s coastal spirit. Practically, climbers should approach with a selection of small to medium cams, tricams, and emphasize solid trad skills to navigate the less-protected initial wall and the intricate dihedral. The cruxes require focused effort but offer a satisfying sense of mastery on one of the region’s signature climbs.

Beyond the pitch itself, the climb demands respect for the unpredictable coastal weather, often shifting quickly from sun to mist, so timing an ascent during stable dry conditions is ideal. Protective footwear that balances grip with comfort, along with a haul of cheater stones or equivalent, will pay dividends here. The trail access is straightforward, with a moderate approach, but carrying a GPS or map is advised given the remote feel of the ancient granite face dominating the landscape.

Pyramid blends the wild spirit of Nova Scotia’s north shore with the measured, technical flourish of a classic trad climb. It offers adventure with a practical edge — a route that invites climbers to engage deeply with the rock and the landscape, rewarding preparation and presence with lasting memories and earned summits.

Climber Safety

Protection can be tenuous on the first five meters, so ensure solid gear placements before fully committing. The roof corner's holds can be loose, especially after wet weather. Plan your rappel carefully; anchors are fixed but share space with adjacent routes, so double-check organization and knots before descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon coastal winds and shifting weather.

Carry small wires and tricams for the first crux on the dihedral.

Check the rock for loose holds on the shattered face before committing.

Use ropes long enough for a clean rap or walk off; anchors are located above the ledge.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating here feels true to the route's sustained technical demands, with the PG13 tag highlighting sparse but well-placed protection on the lower wall. The two cruxes—first along the dihedral and then exiting the roof—ramp up the difficulty and require precise hand jams and body positioning. Compared to nearby First Face lines, Pyramid offers a more technical face climb with less consistent protection, elevating the experience for seasoned trad climbers.

Gear Requirements

Bring a set of small to medium cams, including tricams, plus extra cheater stones to supplement the sparse protection on the first face section. Anchors for descent are shared with the routes Sins and Transgressions.

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Tags

trad
single pitch
dihedral
roof crack
small pro
mixed face
Nova Scotia