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Putain d'Ornithorynque: A Bold 5.10d Trad Challenge in Lanaudiere

Lac du Cap, Quebec Canada
rounded dihedral
crux start
roof traverse
finger crack
single pitch
trad gear
Quebec granite
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Putain d'Ornithorynque
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Putain d'Ornithorynque is a fierce single-pitch trad climb hugging the granite walls of Lanaudiere. With a challenging crux to start and an exposed roof traverse to finish, this route demands precision and steady nerves while rewarding climbers with vivid crack sequences and a serene wilderness backdrop."

Putain d'Ornithorynque: A Bold 5.10d Trad Challenge in Lanaudiere

Putain d'Ornithorynque carves out a compelling single-pitch test on the granite faces of Lanaudiere’s I. Névroses sector. This climb begins with a demanding move up a rounded dihedral, immediately setting the tone with a crux that challenges your precision and commitment. Finding rhythm on this initial section, climbers reach a welcome ledge to catch their breath while the rock seems to shift its personality—clean, textured, and willing to reveal cracks and corners that demand attentive footwork and hand placements.

The route then sweeps into a left-facing dihedral that demands steady movement, blending technical crack climbing with body tension. Here, the interplay of fingers searching the fissures and feet pressing against the granite adds a tactile dialogue between climber and stone. Approaching the distinctive roof, the climb culminates in a delicate traverse to the left, where balance meets boldness, before tackling a brief but demanding finger crack that guards the anchor bolts above.

Set in the quiet expanse of Quebec’s Lanaudiere, the route offers an escape from crowds with crisp air and pine-scented breezes. The exposed granite cliffs absorb the morning sun, making early starts rewarding before the midday heat settles in. Rock quality is generally solid, with bolts protecting key moves but a rack that’s essential for trad placements up to 2 inches—a reminder that this line calls for both protection skills and mental focus.

Climbers should prepare for a moderate approach over forested terrain, with about 30-minute access hiking that blends patches of moss and loose rock. Descending involves a two-stage rappel system; first a 150-foot drop to a ledge before continuing down via the adjacent Belette Instantanée route, needing careful attention to ropes and anchors to ensure a smooth exit.

Whether you're stepping up from intermediate grades or seeking a crisp technical route in eastern Canada, Putain d'Ornithorynque offers both challenge and reward: a demanding start, varied crack systems, and a strikingly exposed finish that invites climbers to embrace the rock’s personality. Drawing on solid protection placements and a clear sequence, the climb presents an excellent opportunity to sharpen trad skills in a relatively quiet alpine zone.

Plan your day with hydration close at hand, sturdy shoes that excel on smears and cracks, and a mindset geared for patience and precision. The granite’s texture can shift with weather—dry conditions are essential—and the route’s character becomes especially engaging in early autumn or late spring, when the air carries a crisp edge that sharpens focus but doesn’t numb the fingers.

Putain d'Ornithorynque captivates with its bold line and technical demands, making it a rewarding addition to any trad climber’s itinerary in Quebec. This pitch not only challenges movement but invites you into an unhurried dance with the rock, where every hold counts and every move builds toward a satisfying, exposed finale.

Climber Safety

The rappel descent requires careful rope management and familiarity with multi-stage rappelling. Loose rock near the approach trail and ledge can pose hazards—stay attentive and wear a helmet. Avoid climbing in damp or wet conditions to reduce slippage on the granite.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler rock temperatures and avoid midday sun on the granite face.

Ensure your rack includes duplicates in the 0.5" to 1" range for optimal protection.

Check weather forecasts—dry granite is essential for safe climbing on this route.

Test rope rappel equipment before descent; the two-stage rappel requires precise setup.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d rating is mostly accurate, with a stiff crux near the start that demands precise footwork and finger strength. The traverse above the roof adds an extra layer of exposure and technical commitment, pushing the route beyond a simple moderate climb. Climbers familiar with similar east-coast granite cracks will find this a rewarding but focused challenge.

Gear Requirements

Bring a trad rack up to 2 inches, with doubles in smaller sizes down to 0.5 inches for tricky protection spots. The route also features five bolts protecting key sections, but reliance on solid gear placements is necessary. Prepare for a rappel of 150 feet to a ledge, then continue down via Belette Instantanée anchors.

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Tags

rounded dihedral
crux start
roof traverse
finger crack
single pitch
trad gear
Quebec granite