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Purgatory - Powerful Moves on Newfoundland's Cemetery Face

Portugal Cove - St. Philips, Canada
bulge crux
sport climbing
limestone
short route
technical moves
Length: 20 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Purgatory
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Purgatory challenges climbers with a steep bulge that tests power and technique in a compact 20-foot climb on Newfoundland’s limestone Cemetery Face. Perfect for those seeking a brief, intense sport route close to Portugal Cove - St. Philips."

Purgatory - Powerful Moves on Newfoundland's Cemetery Face

Purgatory offers a compelling, sharp sport climb carved into the rugged limestone of Cemetery Face, just minutes from Portugal Cove - St. Philips on Newfoundland's Avalon Peninsula. This brief but intense 20-foot route demands technical precision and raw power from the moment you step onto the wall. Starting beneath a prominent bulge, climbers face a demanding crux that requires both strength and careful footwork to pull through. The rock here feels alive, its sharp edges and textured surface providing challenging holds for fingers and feet alike. Above the bulge, the angle eases into more manageable terrain, allowing a brief moment to breathe and recover before clipping the anchors bolted into the solid rock.

Though short, this route packs a punch and rewards climbers who arrive prepared to engage fully. The protection consists of four well-spaced bolts plus a secure anchor, ensuring confidence as you tackle the steep moves. It’s an ideal climb for those accustomed to sport routes who want to test their endurance and technique in a setting that balances raw exposure with easy access.

Set against the cool Atlantic backdrop, the wall's northwest aspect catches afternoon light but remains cool and shaded in the morning, making spring through early autumn the best seasons to attempt this route. Approaching Cemetery Face from the small roadside parking near Portugal Cove is straightforward, with a short grassy scramble leading directly to the base. The environment buzzes with the sounds of sea breezes and distant gulls, evoking a quiet alertness as you prepare to push through the crux.

For climbers venturing to this part of Newfoundland, Purgatory provides a compact taste of the local limestone’s character: solid, slightly abrasive, and demanding respect. Whether you’re here to warm up before longer climbs or sharpen your sport climbing skills, Purgatory’s blend of physicality and accessibility makes it a worthy stop.

Climber Safety

Be cautious when clipping bolts on the bulge—body positioning is key to maintaining balance. The small ledge above the crux provides a safe stance to rest, but falling from the crux requires controlled technique due to bolt spacing.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length20 feet

Local Tips

Arrive early in the day to avoid afternoon sun and wind.

Wear shoes with good edging capabilities for the small footholds.

Bring chalk to maintain grip through the steep crux moves.

Check weather carefully as coastal conditions can change swiftly.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:At 5.10d, Purgatory demands precise technique and strength, especially through the initial bulge. The grade feels stiff for its short length due to sustained power moves, with the crux serving as a sharp spike in difficulty. Climbers familiar with local Newfoundland limestone will find it challenging but fair compared to other sport climbs in the area.

Gear Requirements

The climb features four bolts and a solid anchor, suited for sport climbing with no additional gear required beyond a standard quickdraw set and rope.

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Tags

bulge crux
sport climbing
limestone
short route
technical moves