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Purgatorius: Bold Sport Climbing on The Little Fin, Colorado

Estes Park, Colorado United States
gritty rock
sport climb
exposed moves
single pitch
long reach
Colorado limestone
cruxy clipping
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Purgatorius
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Purgatorius offers a gritty, exposed single-pitch climb on The Little Fin, blending technical sport moves with an adventurous edge. This route demands careful clipping and focused climbing on rugged Colorado limestone, making it ideal for those ready to test both skill and nerve."

Purgatorius: Bold Sport Climbing on The Little Fin, Colorado

Purgatorius stands as a striking test of commitment and finesse on the rugged vertical face of The Little Fin in the Jurassic Park sector, within the Estes Park Valley. This single-pitch, 60-foot sport climb demands attention not only for its gritty, featured rock but for the mental edge it requires. Beginning on a micro-flatiron outcrop, the route eases you into the climb with a few straightforward moves past three bolts, drawing you steadily upward. After this initial stretch, you'll find yourself reaching long to clip the next bolt—this sets the tone for what’s to come.

The middle portion of Purgatorius is where the dance begins: a cruxy move around the fourth bolt that veers right, then up, before shifting left. The terrain here is exposed enough to keep your focus sharp, with edges and flakes that ask for trust in both body and gear. The protection, spaced with seven bolts total, provides security, but spacing near bolts four through six increases the consequence of any missteps. Notably, the sixth bolt hangs just over an edge, making falls particularly risky as your quickdraw dangles precariously—clipping a sling here might be wise but requires careful thought.

As the angle eases near the top, the route finishes at a two-bolt anchor perched on solid rock, a welcome reprieve after the technical crux zone. This climb feels like a blend of adventure and sport climbing — its route-finding elements and underway flow challenge even seasoned climbers to remain deliberate with each move.

The rock’s grit gives good friction, but it’s not without loose flakes in places, so clean-up after traffic will improve conditions and confidence. The name Purgatorius nods to an ancient creature that survived the dinosaur era — a fitting metaphor for a climb that demands resilience and respect.

Located near the highway, access to The Little Fin is straightforward, but the approach calls for caution on steep talus. Expect a brief hike across uneven terrain, requiring solid footwear and readiness for rocky footing.

When planning your ascent, bring gear suited for sport routes—draws for the bolts and a sling for tricky clipping spots—and prepare for the mental challenge of longer falls around bolt five. Early morning or late afternoon climbs offer the best shade on the wall, with afternoon sun warming the rock in cooler seasons. Hydrate well, wear supportive climbing shoes with good edging capability, and pack light to balance agility with safety.

Purgatorius is a climb that rewards focused energy and sharp beta, combining the thrill of exposed moves on gritty stone with the practical challenge of careful clipping and route reading. It’s a solid pick for climbers looking to test their sport skills on Colorado’s complex limestone faces, where adventure still speaks through the bolts.

Climber Safety

Be aware of the 25-plus foot fall potential between bolts four and five, with a significant ledge below. The sixth bolt’s overhanging hanger can cause quickdraws to swing free after a fall, so use cautious clipping techniques and consider extending the draw with a sling.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach carefully over steep, rocky talus; sturdy footwear is essential.

Clip the fifth bolt with caution—falls here can be long and dangerous.

Morning and late afternoon offer the best shade and comfortable temperatures.

Clean loose flakes proactively to improve holds before climbing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:Though officially rated 5.9-, Purgatorius carries a sense of an 8+ in effort, reflecting a cruxy section requiring a dynamic reach and precise footwork. The bolt spacing leaves some bold runouts that bump the seriousness beyond the rating, demanding a steady head and confidence on edges.

Gear Requirements

Seven bolts protect the climb with a two-bolt anchor. Careful attention is needed near bolts four to six where placement gaps increase consequence. Consider using a sling around the sixth bolt due to the over-edge hanger configuration.

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Tags

gritty rock
sport climb
exposed moves
single pitch
long reach
Colorado limestone
cruxy clipping