"Purgatorio in El Escalon offers 75 feet of finger-crack climbing that shifts from tight jams to a demanding upper dihedral. This technical single pitch rewards precision gear placements and crack skills in a serene northern Mexico setting."
Purgatorio challenges climbers with a steep, demanding finger crack that quickly sharpens into precise, small jams before opening into a sustained upper dihedral. Located in the rugged El Escalon region of northern Jalisco, this single-pitch trad route demands both finesse and power over 75 feet of vertical rock. From the moment your fingers slip into the narrow start, the crack shifts and tightens, asking for delicate hand placements and quiet focus. The upper section opens slightly, but the climbing intensifies around the corner where the crux resides—a sharp dihedral guarded by a handful of thin nuts and micro cams, requiring clean and confident gear placements. The rock here is solid and offers excellent friction, but body positioning is crucial to maintain momentum through the demanding sequences.
The approach is straightforward, following a rugged dirt path that cuts through scrub and sparse pine, with the dry air warming quickly as you ascend. The route faces east, catching the morning sun and shedding heat by early afternoon—offering an ideal window for an early start to keep hands cool and grip steady. While the natural light brings out the warm tones of the volcanic rock, shade grows as the day advances, so plan accordingly based on weather and season.
Protection ranges from thin nuts to micro cams up to 2 inches, requiring a well-rounded rack focusing on smaller gear. Given the subtle crack features, placements for larger pro can be hard to find and thin gear must be meticulously tested. The route’s stoppers and micro cams segregate the climbing into manageable chunks but reward precision in setting gear before moving up.
Descend via a single rappel anchored at the top, with solid fixed bolts that ease retreat after the climb. The area’s relative quiet and remoteness amplify the sense of personal challenge and achievement when you top out. Despite its technical demands and the inherent risks of thin protection, Purgatorio offers an exceptionally pure crack experience in one of northern Mexico’s promising trad crags.
For those drawn to sustained finger cracks and high-end ease with gear placements, this climb delivers a memorable dose of technical climbing wrapped in expansive northern Mexico geography. Planning ahead, pack layers, brush up on precise crack technique, and start early to make the most of the crisp morning light and comfortable temperatures.
Although the protection is generally reliable, placements rely heavily on thin nuts and micro cams—testing every piece before trusting your weight is critical. Keep an eye on your footwork on the upper dihedral to avoid slips, and approach with competent crack climbing technique for safe movement.
Start early to climb in cool morning sun on this east-facing wall.
Bring precise finger-sized protection to cover the tight sections effectively.
Watch your foot placements on the upper dihedral to maintain balance during tricky moves.
Be prepared for a single rappel descent using the fixed anchors at the top.
Protection focuses on thin nuts and micro cams up to 2 inches. Bring a rack heavy on small gear and prepare to test placements carefully, especially through the crux dihedral.
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