HomeClimbingPulmonary Pain

Pulmonary Pain: Trad Climbing on Quarantine Wall, Golden Gate Canyon

Golden, Colorado United States
trad
single-pitch
corner crack
steep buttress
Golden Gate Canyon
varied protection
technical moves
Length: 20 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Pulmonary Pain
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Pulmonary Pain is a tight, technical trad climb on the steep buttresses of Quarantine Wall. Its short but varied moves engage climbers with challenging corners and delicate face cracks, perfect for those refining their crack climbing skills near Golden, Colorado."

Pulmonary Pain: Trad Climbing on Quarantine Wall, Golden Gate Canyon

Pulmonary Pain presents a compact but rewarding trad climb that challenges your route-finding skills and hands-on protection placement on Colorado’s Quarantine Wall. Located in Golden Gate Canyon State Park, this route threads up a steep buttress where the terrain demands both steady technique and tactical decision-making. The initial moves require a bit of scouting — starting from the left flank offers an easier, more gradual approach, while the direct line up the headwall packs more punch at 5.8 difficulty, rewarding climbers with directness but a stiffer challenge. Once past the first steep section, climbers move into a corner system rated 5.4, providing a breather with solid holds and comfortable placements.

The heart of Pulmonary Pain is the corner which ascends at 5.7—a pitch that offers textured rock and subtle hand jams that test balance and footwork. As you near the summit, a choice unfolds: stay on the direct line or veer left on a face adorned with finger cracks. Both options push difficulty back to 5.8, inviting you to rely on varied crack climbing techniques to secure your ascent. The exposure grows here—not in height, given its modest 20-foot length—but in the climb’s complexity and the need for smart protection.

A scramble over scattered boulders culminates at a solid anchor rated 5.2, where the route eases and offers welcome relief. This short pitch is deceptively simple but doesn’t alleviate the need for focused climbing in the earlier sections. Expect to bring a standard trad rack with cams up to #3 and a variety of smaller nuts and cams to adapt to the varied crack sizes found along the climb.

Quarantine Wall itself is a quiet segment within Dude’s Throne, a smaller formation renowned for its rugged granite and clean lines. The rock here feels raw and unpolished, promising an authentic mountain experience without the crowds that frequently swarm the Front Range’s more popular spots. After brushing and cleaning by locals, Pulmonary Pain may warrant a two-star rating as its protection opportunities and movement quality shine.

Approach is moderate, weaving through forested trails of Golden Gate Canyon State Park. The area’s pine-scented air and the occasional bird call keep your senses sharp while you prep your gear and mentally map your climb. This is a reliable day trip for climbers in the Denver metro area seeking steep, technical challenges that don’t require a long haul or multi-pitch logistics.

For safety, pay close attention to rock quality especially on the starting headwall and the transition sections—the route demands active route management and careful placement of gear. Loose rock and crumbly sections have been noted, so test every hold and piece of protection before weighting it. The route's short length is deceptive; it packs an intensity that rewards precision over endurance, a perfect test for climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills in an accessible setting.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution on the steep headwall where holds can be loose and protection placements may be tricky. The route demands deliberate gear placement and thorough assessment of rock stability. Loose boulders near the top require careful scrambling to avoid dislodging rock.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length20 feet

Local Tips

Start from the left side of the buttress for an easier but longer approach to the crux.

Bring a rack with a range of cams, especially #0.75 to #3 sizes for the corner and face cracks.

Test all holds carefully, especially on the headwall, where some rock can be loose.

Plan to clean and brush sections prior to your climb for the safest experience.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:At a 5.8 rating, Pulmonary Pain strikes a balanced challenge: solid for climbers comfortable with moderate trad moves but with some crux sections that keep things exciting. The rating feels appropriate—neither soft nor overly stiff—with its key difficulties found in the initial headwall and the final face cracks. This route matches local classics in the Golden area in terms of technicality and hand crack variety but remains more approachable given its short length.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack including cams up to size #3 along with a selection of small nuts and cams will cover all protection needs here. The crack systems vary from thin fingers to wider jams, requiring versatile gear choices for secure placements.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Pulmonary Pain and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad
single-pitch
corner crack
steep buttress
Golden Gate Canyon
varied protection
technical moves