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Propane, Propane: A Bold Sport Climb at El Potrero Chico

Nuevo Laredo, Mexico
face climbing
dihedral
arete
jugs
runout
dry climate
sport climbing
5.10c
Length: 110 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Propane, Propane
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Propane, Propane is a focused 110-foot sport climb in El Potrero Chico that blends jug-heavy face moves with a striking dihedral feature. This route tests precision and composure in northern Mexico's iconic limestone terrain."

Propane, Propane: A Bold Sport Climb at El Potrero Chico

Set against the rugged limestone cliffs of El Potrero Chico, Propane, Propane invites climbers into an intense 110-foot push that combines solid jug hauling with a striking dihedral and arete that challenges both grip and balance. The route traces a prominent white scar on the rock face, offering consistent holds but asking for focused movement, especially in the final stretch where a subtle runout tests your mental edge on trustable jugs. The climb leans toward face climbing with generous holds, yet it demands confident footwork and the ability to read tricky sequences where the rock's texture shifts beneath your fingers.

This single-pitch sport climb is bolted cleanly with 10 well-spaced anchors, ideal for climbers stepping into the 5.10c grade or seeking a crisp, technical route that’s neither overrun nor overly polished. The setting in Nuevo Leon’s famed El Potrero Chico area presents more than just the physical challenge — warm breezes often push through the canyon, carrying scents of dry pine and limestone dust, while the vertical walls spotlight the harsh sun or cooling shade depending on the time of day. Planning your attempt in the morning or late afternoon can maximize comfort and visibility of holds.

Approaching the route involves a brief hike from the main trailhead, threading through scrubland and thorny bushes over firm, well-trodden dirt paths that stretch roughly 15 minutes. At the base, the rock’s bright white face stands out vividly against the desert backdrop, inviting a careful inspection of the bolts and the dihedral feature. Climbers should wear stiff-soled shoes to handle the varied edging and smearing the route demands, and carry plenty of water — the dry northern Mexico climate leaks no mercy.

Whether you’re a seasoned local or a visitor drawn by El Potrero Chico’s reputation, Propane, Propane delivers a measured test of technique and nerve. The face climbing rhythm is punctuated by the cool dihedral’s embrace, giving this route a dynamic flow rather than a flat, repetitive sequence. The exposure here is real but controlled, offering that pulse-quickening sensation without pushing you into uncomfortable territory. After your ascent, descending is straightforward — a single rappel from the bolted anchors leads back to the trail, allowing a safe and efficient exit.

In sum, Propane, Propane is a well-protected, focused climb that sits comfortably in the zone of intermediate to advanced sport routes, boasting enough variation and rock quality to engage climbers looking for both a physical and mental exercise. Equip yourself with good shoes, ample hydration, and a calm mindset, and you’ll find this route a rewarding slice of El Potrero Chico’s climbing spectrum.

Climber Safety

The runout on solid jugs near the top can challenge climbers less comfortable with spaced protection. Make sure to clip early and often, and avoid downclimbing from the final ledges due to loose rock and exposure. The sun can make the rock hot; time your climb wisely.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length110 feet

Local Tips

Start your climb early morning to avoid the peak sun on the white face.

Wear stiff climbing shoes to manage precise foot placement on the varying rock texture.

Carry more water than usual; the dry heat here can lead to rapid dehydration.

Use the fixed bolted anchors for a single rappel descent; avoid downclimbing slippery finishes.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:At 5.10c, Propane, Propane sits in a moderate difficulty zone where the grade feels fair but demands clean technique, especially through the dihedral. The route's runout near the top adds a mental edge, requiring steady nerves rather than just raw power. Compared to nearby El Potrero Chico climbs, it’s a bit stiffer than some lower 5.10s, mostly due to its sustained face moves and subtle runout.

Gear Requirements

The climb is protected by 10 bolts spaced to allow confident clipping but challenges you with small runouts near the top. Sport climbers should bring standard quickdraws and be ready for a long reach on the dihedral section.

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Tags

face climbing
dihedral
arete
jugs
runout
dry climate
sport climbing
5.10c