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Prestevious: A Finger Crack Classic on Shelf Road

Canon City, Colorado USA
finger crack
smearing
stem
single pitch
trad protection
pine anchor
Length: 45 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Prestevious
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Prestevious is a hands-on finger crack climb carving up a right-facing corner at Shelf Road. Offering technical footwork and reliable protection, it’s a perfect test piece for trad climbers aiming to refine their crack technique in the heart of Colorado’s canyon country."

Prestevious: A Finger Crack Classic on Shelf Road

Prestevious offers a focused taste of traditional Colorado climbing with its inviting finger crack slicing up a right-facing corner. Found in the rugged walls of Shelf Road near Canon City, this brief but satisfying 45-foot climb challenges climbers with a blend of technical crack moves intertwined with delicate footwork. The approach to the crack is straightforward, but the middle section demands patient smearing and careful stemming, testing your balance and control. Rock hands provide secure holds, letting you rest and regain your composure before pushing through the crux zone.

The climb’s location at Shelf Road situates you amid a landscape carved from ancient limestone, where sunlight bounces off sharp edges and the whisper of wind through the pines adds a soundtrack to your ascent. The climb finishes atop a ledge crowned by a large pine tree, which serves as both a natural anchor and a quiet lookout point, offering a moment to soak in the spread of rugged canyon walls and open sky.

Prestevious is rated 5.8-, inviting climbers comfortable with finger cracks but wary of technical foot placements to give this a shot. The protection is straightforward: a standard rack augmented with nuts suits the crack well, allowing solid gear placements even through the trickier mid-section. Top roping or rappelling down is made simple by the robust anchor around the pine, though choosing your rappel direction wisely ensures a safe descent.

This route’s appeal is in its blend of playful finger locking and feet-smearing movement on solid rock, a classic test for those seeking to sharpen crack climbing skills without committing to longer pitches. Perfect for an afternoon outing, the moderate pitch length means you can enjoy multiple laps with minimal approach time. Bring shoes with sticky rubber and prepare for subtle balance challenges along the way. A moderate physical effort paired with reliable protection makes Prestevious an accessible step up on Colorado’s rich trad climbing scene, ideal for those looking to deepen crack technique in a scenic, quiet setting.

Climber Safety

Foot placements in the middle section are less secure; careful smearing and stemming are essential to avoid slips. Ensure your anchor around the pine tree is solid and verify the rope path on rappel to avoid snag hazards.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the established trail to The Bank sector for quick access.

Wear sticky climbing shoes to handle the smearing at the crux.

Use the large pine atop the cliff for a reliable anchor and rappel point.

Start climbing mid-morning to catch shaded rock through the crux moves.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8- grade feels fairly approachable for seasoned climbers but presents a subtle challenge with its mid-route crux requiring smearing and stemming. While not overly strenuous, it demands precise foot placement and steady crack technique. Compared to other trad climbs in Shelf Road, it sits on the lower end of difficulty, making it an excellent warm-up or technique-builder.

Gear Requirements

A standard rack equipped with nuts works well here, fitting the crack’s profile and securing placements especially through the mid-section. Bring gear sizes that suit finger to hand cracks.

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Tags

finger crack
smearing
stem
single pitch
trad protection
pine anchor