Prefiero Cabeza carves a bold line up a narrow, one-meter-wide trough in the rugged expanse of Leon Alado, Hidalgo. This single-pitch trad route stretches 50 feet, demanding precision and confidence from climbers willing to test their skills on a sparse but intriguing feature. The climb's defining characteristic is its raw, natural protection: a solitary pin anchored low on the wall and opportunities to sling chicken heads that intermittently dot the trough. This minimal gear setup challenges climbers to evaluate risk and strategy before committing, making a careful top-rope preview essential.

The sharp edges and tight confines of the trough pull you into a tactile conversation with the rock. The chalk traces indicate that this line, while known to the local community, remains an underappreciated route, inviting pioneers who seek adventure beyond packed walls. The rock’s texture offers both friction and challenge, with delicate footholds that reward precise footwork. As you move upward, the surrounding landscape of Hidalgo stretches quietly behind, providing a subtle reminder of the vertical journey’s connection to the lands below.

Preparation here is more than bringing gear—it’s about understanding the route's protection nuances. Given the reliance on a single visible pin and delicate chicken head placements, climbers should carry a full rack of cams and slings to secure the varied protection spots. The ambiguous quality of natural gear means you’ll frequently assess whether placements hold your weight, making route-finding and critical judgement part of the test.

Reaching the anchors demands awareness; these fixed points require a strong double-check to ensure your safe descent. The route’s compact nature means the descent does not demand complex rappelling techniques, but solid anchors and steady hands are non-negotiable. The untamed feeling combined with moderate length and demanding moves establishes Prefiero Cabeza as a route for the experienced trad climber who values adventure and discretion in protection.

Plan your climb during the cooler hours of early morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat that the exposed rock absorbs under the midday sun. Proper footwear with aggressive edging and enough flexibility to maneuver in tight stances will make all the difference. Hydration is key; the dry Mexican air can be deceptive when pushing your limits on steep rock. Local logistics involve a straightforward approach but expect basic trail conditions — sturdy shoes and light packs will keep your movement efficient.

Prefiero Cabeza isn’t a casual climb — it’s a focused encounter with the rock’s raw personality where protection is sparse and the margin of error slim. For those ready to listen closely and move deliberately, this climb offers a compact but potent challenge wrapped in the quiet majesty of Central Mexico’s highlands.