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Practice Run at The Training Grounds, Devil's Head

Denver, Colorado United States
sport climbing
yellow lichen
chicken heads
single pitch
overhang crux
shared anchor
The Training Grounds
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Practice Run
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Practice Run offers a sharp, enjoyable 50-foot sport climb on Devil's Head’s south face. With short cruxes behind a yellow lichen bulge and textured chicken heads, it’s perfect for those tuning technique or warming up in Colorado’s scenic Training Grounds."

Practice Run at The Training Grounds, Devil's Head

The Practice Run route offers a compact but rewarding slice of sport climbing carved into the rugged stone of Devil's Head, part of Colorado's South Platte corridor. Measuring a concise 50 feet, this single-pitch climb invites climbers to engage with its straightforward yet surprisingly textured face. The route’s defining challenges come in short bursts of movement, particularly at a series of low overhangs that reward taller climbers with a slight advantage, though smaller climbers will find their own rhythm.

Launching from the ground, climbers quickly pick their way along the second bolt line from the right. The rock’s surface rises sharply, guiding you toward a modest arch at the heart of the climb. Along the way, a striking yellow lichen bulge stands out—a natural landmark signaling the first real test of technique and patience. Crossing this bulge requires steady footwork and controlled pulling to overcome the subtle vertical struggle.

Beyond the arch, you encounter a collection of chicken heads that provide textured holds, allowing for a creative sequence of moves that blend balance with power. The finish leads slightly right, culminating at a shared anchor point that can present its own subtle challenge. The anchor’s sloping edges demand careful clipping, as they offer less security than the sharply incut holds found along the bulk of the route. This last step keeps you engaged right to the end, sharpening your focus and rewarding clean, thoughtful movement.

Practice Run’s protection is straightforward, relying fully on a bolt line equipped with two bolts and a two-bolt anchor featuring a Metolius rap hanger paired with a cold shut. This setup allows for a confident ascent, while the presence of fixed gear means you can concentrate more on movement and less on gear placement.

Accessing the base is a brief approach through The Training Grounds, a well-known area where Devil’s Head rises prominently. The terrain prior to the climb is manageable, with rock-strewn paths inviting a short walk-in that primes you for the climb without exhaustion. Given the route’s moderate length and grade, it fits well as a warm-up pitch or a target for those refining their movement on steeper terrain.

Plan your climb in daylight hours when light hits the face directly, enhancing the visibility of holds and the distinguishing yellow lichen spot. Early season ascents typically find the rock clean and dry, but watch for weather shifts common in Colorado’s mountainous zones, especially afternoon thunderstorms in summer. Wear sturdy climbing shoes that offer good edging ability, and bring a light rack of quickdraws to clip the bolts safely.

Practice Run rewards climbers with a balanced blend of challenge and accessibility. Its steady sequence and quality holds make it an inviting destination for sport climbers looking to build confidence or enjoy a focused, technical outing in a classic Colorado setting.

Climber Safety

The final anchor features slightly sloping and less secure edges compared to the main holds, so take extra care while clipping. Be mindful of sudden weather changes that can elevate risks on exposed rock, especially during storm season.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon storms common in summer months.

Bring quickdraws compatible with sport bolts for efficient clipping.

Wear climbing shoes with precise edging to navigate the lichen bulge.

Prepare for a short, rocky approach that requires sturdy footwear.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Practice Run feels approachable but carries subtle technical moves that keep you engaged. The cruxes at the overhang and final anchor clipping add dimension beyond the typical warm-up route. Unlike softer 5.7 climbs nearby, this pitch demands moderate power and attention to foot placement, making it a solid upgrade for those stepping up their sport climbing game in the area.

Gear Requirements

The climb is fully bolted with two bolts along the line and a two-bolt anchor equipped with a Metolius rap hanger and a cold shut, providing safe and straightforward clipping options.

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Tags

sport climbing
yellow lichen
chicken heads
single pitch
overhang crux
shared anchor
The Training Grounds