"Popeye and the Raven offers a focused trad climb in Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs, featuring a steep ramp that peaks with a well-earned crux at the third bolt. This single-pitch route requires careful gear placements and keeps climbers engaged with technical moves and solid protection."
Rising sharply against the granite face of The Smoke Bluffs, Popeye and the Raven challenges climbers with a single pitch of intense, technical climbing that demands both precision and poise. The climb begins on a steep ramp, where the difficulty steadily builds as your hands and feet hunt for secure holds amidst tight cracks and subtle edges. The initial section calls for careful gear placements—small nuts and cams from half-inch to one-inch range—before you clip the first bolt, signaling a shift into more committed terrain. As you push upward, a crux emerges around the third bolt. It’s a test of body strength and finesse, where balance and finger strength collide in a brief, but sharp, sequence. After surmounting this challenge, the difficulty eases slightly but doesn’t fully relent. There are still a few bold moves that keep you alert as you near the anchor, positioned just five feet to the left of the Quarryman route.
The rock beneath your hands is solid, offering confident friction while demanding clean footwork. The route’s length of 82 feet is a perfect sprint of sustained effort that rewards steady focus. The Smoke Bluffs area itself offers a rugged backdrop, its granite walls exposed to ample sunlight, which makes Popeye and the Raven an ideal climb for cooler seasons or early mornings before the warmth intensifies. Approach is straightforward and brisk, allowing you to maximize your time on the route without a long trek.
This climb appeals to adventurous trad climbers looking to push into the low 5.10 range with a route that combines bolts for added security while requiring well-placed gear. The protection is generally reliable but demands comfort with mid-size cams and a keen eye for placements, especially at the lower half. As a concentrated burst of high-effort climbing, Popeye and the Raven is a fine addition to any Squamish day, offering a tangible sense of accomplishment when you clip the anchor bolts and survey the stretch of granite and forest below.
Be prepared for moderate exposure and occasional wind gusts on the ledge, which remind you that the mountain environment here is part of the challenge. Whether you’re sharpening your trad technique or seeking a solid 5.10 single-pitch climb, this route serves as both a solid workout and a memorable encounter with Squamish’s renowned granite.
Gear placements in the lower half require careful attention—small cams are essential, and some spots offer limited protection. The ledge at the anchors is exposed to wind gusts, so secure your belay setup and maintain situational awareness.
Start early to avoid the mid-day sun on the wall; morning shade keeps the rock cool.
Pay close attention to gear placements in the lower half—small cams are key for safe protection.
Watch for occasional gusts on the ledge near the anchor, which can affect belay comfort.
The approach is quick but rocky; sturdy shoes and careful footing will save energy.
Bring a standard trad rack focusing on smaller cams from 0.5 to 1 inch to protect the lower section before reaching the bolted middle section. Four bolts provide secure clipping through the crux up to the anchors.
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