"Pollemor offers a solid two-pitch trad climb featuring juggy chimneys and hand traverses on a rugged tower in Mushroom Massif. With approachable 5.8 moves and variable protection, it’s a rewarding choice for trad climbers looking to explore Lyons’ granite walls."
Pollemor offers a grounded yet engaging two-pitch trad climb tucked into the rugged contours of Mushroom Massif, along the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado. The route begins with a chimney that commands attention—not the squeeze just right of the bolts, but a steeper, jug-friendly chimney slightly left of that. This initial section climbs fluidly, offering solid hand and foot holds that feel dependable despite some lichen patches reminding you that this line doesn’t see constant traffic.
At roughly 50 feet elevation, climbers find themselves atop a narrow tower, where a rightward traverse across an incut horizontal crack slices beneath a bulge. This hand-traverse has a bit of a reach premium for anyone under 5’3", requiring a good stretch and body tension to stay solid. The traverse leads to a comfortable stance with anchor options where you’ll want to set up a belay, minimizing rope drag for the upcoming pitch.
The second pitch wanders through shallow cracks, testing climbers’ ability to read protection opportunities on the fly. Gear placements are generally favorable, but they demand attentiveness—grabbing protection as it appears is key to maintaining a smooth lead. The rock here is mostly reliable, with a mix of incuts and edges that require steady footwork and a calm approach. The pitch finishes by angling right to reach the chain anchors atop The Mushroom.
Descending is straightforward—two rope-length rappels, first 60 feet and then 90 feet, bring you safely back to the base. The protection setup is typical for trad climbing here: a solid set of stoppers and cams up to three inches, with doubles in the thin hand-sized gear range covering the trickier placements.
Though Pollemor currently sits in the 1-2 star range due to occasional lichen and sparse traffic, the route holds potential. A little more cleaning and repeated ascents could solidify it as a dependable classic for the area. Its approachable rating of 5.8 keeps it accessible to climbers comfortable with basic protection and chimney techniques. Located in the striking setting of St. Vrain Canyons, the climb provides more than just physical challenge—it offers textured stone, shifting light, and the cool whisper of canyon winds that keep the experience sharp and memorable.
Prepare for this adventure with sturdy footwear optimized for friction and chimney moves, and bring enough rack to comfortably cover thinner and wider cracks alike. Water is essential—Lyons’ high elevation and dry ecosystem mean hydration is never optional. Plan for spring or fall climbs to avoid summer’s intense heat and winter’s frozen hazards. The approach trail is moderate, weaving through pine and granite outcrops, giving a sampler of Colorado’s alpine character before you even grab your rack.
For any climber seeking a moderate trad climb off the well-worn paths, Pollemor stands as a fine test of skill and patience. Its evolving nature invites a deeper engagement, a quiet challenge that rewards attention and respect for the stone. With mindful preparation and steady footsteps, this climb is ready to become a favored route in the Mushroom Massif landscape.
Be aware of loose lichen patches on some rock surfaces which can impact grip. Rope drag can build up if the belay isn’t established at the recommended stance halfway up, so prioritize the belay setup there. The rappel anchors are reliable, but double-check the ropes before descending.
The starting chimney is left of the squeeze chimney—look carefully to locate it.
Shorter climbers will find the hand traverse challenging—focus on balance and reach.
Set your belay at the ledge halfway up to reduce rope drag on pitch two.
Spring and fall offer the best conditions; summer heat and winter ice are hazards to avoid.
Bring a set of stoppers and cams up to three inches, with doubles in the thin hands range for the best gear placements. Most protection is straightforward, but clipping quickly as gear appears will avoid difficult gaps.
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