Pokey's Variation offers a direct invitation to climbers seeking a focused, technical crack climb that demands precise finger jamming and steady composure. Set on Gumby's Wall within the sprawling Smoke Bluffs climbing area near Squamish, British Columbia, this route captures the essence of trad climbing with a distinct emphasis on diagonal finger cracks that test hand strength and control. From the first move, the crack compels you to lock fingers and lean in, engaging muscles and senses in a rhythmic dance with the rock.

The approach to Gumby's Wall weaves through well-trodden paths crowded with fir and cedar, their scent sharp in the cool mountain air. As you look up, the crack slicing diagonally across the rock face stands out, promising a mix of rhythmic crack climbing paired with an option to finish on two slightly harder routes — Blockheads or Made of Clay — if you want to push beyond the base pitch.

The climb itself unfolds over a single pitch, with moves that reward clean finger locks and precise foot placements. The rock is solid, offering both friction and occasional pockets for delicate toe jams. Protection is straightforward with typical trad gear placements, supported by a handful of bolts in key spots, allowing a confident ascent with appropriate rack preparation. Expect to bring a standard rack focusing on smaller cams to fit the narrow crack well.

Weather here can shift rapidly, so timing your climb during the drier months ensures the crack remains dry, maintaining reliable friction and safety on every hold. Early mornings offer crisp coolness and less foot traffic, while afternoons bring sun that warms the rock but can make finger jams a bit less comfortable if temperatures climb too high.

Descending Gumby's Wall is an uncomplicated walk-off or short scramble, but attention is required near the base where loose gravel can catch climbers off guard. Hydration and solid footwear will keep footing sure during the approach and descent.

If you’re seeking a brief but rewarding finger crack climb that sits comfortably in the moderate trad spectrum, Pokey's Variation delivers. Its clear line and accessible protection make it a reliable step up for crack climbers sharpening technique or those wanting to combine it with nearby routes for a full day of hands-on-skin engagement.