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Pocket Pussy: The Technical Trad Challenge at Comox Lake

Comox, British Columbia Canada
technical
small nuts
single pitch
crack finish
blocky start
slippery approach
morning sun
trad climbing
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Pocket Pussy
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Pocket Pussy offers a tight, technical trad climb on Vancouver Island’s Comox Lake, blending blocky starts with delicate gear placements in narrow cracks. Perfect for climbers seeking a brief but intense trad test in a serene wilderness setting."

Pocket Pussy: The Technical Trad Challenge at Comox Lake

Located within the rugged contours of Grand Central at Comox Lake on Vancouver Island, Pocket Pussy offers climbers a compelling, technical trad experience that rewards precision over brute strength. From the first move, the route asserts itself with blocky holds demanding mindful foot placement and careful body positioning. The climb tightens through a slender middle section where small nuts find their home in narrow cracks, testing your gear finesse and patience. Finishing on a welcoming crack with generous rests allows even weary arms moments to breathe before the final stretch.

The single pitch climbs roughly 60 feet, challenging climbers to read the rock and protect judiciously. Expect to tap into your rack of small nuts and cams up to 1.5 inches, as protection must be thoughtfully placed, particularly in the slender middle where placements are at a premium. The route rewards a confident trad climber who appreciates a technical challenge with a blend of finger locks, jams, and precise footwork.

Situated at an elevation of about 400 meters, the approach to Pocket Pussy winds through mixed forest trails that feel alive—the soft crunch of needles underfoot and distant calls of birds accompany you as this area’s granite faces rise from the forest floor. Access is straightforward but demands preparedness for slippery moss and occasional loose stones, so solid footwear is essential.

The aspect of the climb faces southeast, bathing it in morning sun and shading it as the day warms. Early season climbs, from late spring through early fall, present the best window to avoid damp rock and cool breezes.

Drawing on local beta, climbers recommend starting early to catch the crisp morning air and ensure the rock’s dryness. Bring a balanced rack focusing on small gear and be ready for a gear-intensive middle section. The approach trail can be slippery, so trekking poles and trail runners or approach shoes with good grip can make the journey smoother and safer.

Pocket Pussy sits within Comox Lake’s expansive wilderness recreation area, a spot known for its quiet charm and accessible climbing tucked away from the busier Vancouver Island crags. While not the most popular climb here, it is a solid technical test that offers solitude and a true traditional experience. Its compact nature means you can focus fully on your movement and gear placement, with minimal distraction.

Descent is straightforward—climbers can downclimb the start of the route or rappel from a sturdy anchor established at the top. A quick rappel saves knees but requires secure setup and familiarity with single-rope techniques.

This route demands respect and forethought but rewards those seeking a sharp trad challenge on Vancouver Island. Whether you’re honing trad skills or adding a unique climb to your log, Pocket Pussy provides a crisp, clear test of technical ability against granite’s unforgiving face.

Climber Safety

Protect placements in the thin middle section can be tricky—ensure careful gear selection and thorough checks. The approach trail is mossy and can become slippery when wet, so cautious footing is necessary. Rappel anchors should be double-checked before descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of dry morning rock and cooler temperatures.

Wear approach shoes with good traction for the slippery, moss-covered trail.

Bring a rack focused on small nuts and cams; mid-size gear will be less useful.

Use trekking poles or sturdy walking sticks for balance on the approach.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d rating feels stiff due to the sustained technical moves and the precision required for small gear placements amid thin cracks. The crux is well-protected but demands finger strength and calm positioning. Compared to other Vancouver Island trad routes, Pocket Pussy leans towards a focused test of finesse rather than power.

Gear Requirements

Essential gear includes small nuts and cams up to 1.5 inches to protect the narrow, technical middle section. The blocky start and crack finish benefit from precise placements, making a well-organized small rack key.

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Tags

technical
small nuts
single pitch
crack finish
blocky start
slippery approach
morning sun
trad climbing