"Platinum Plus is a standout single-pitch trad climb on Tollhouse Rock’s giant flake, delivering a blend of precise crack work and technical face moves. Perfect for climbers looking to explore classic Southern Sierra granite with manageable exposure and solid protection."
Platinum Plus stands out as a compelling introduction to traditional climbing on Tollhouse Rock, a landmark within California’s Southern Sierra. This single-pitch route ascends a massive detached flake that leans boldly against the caprock, presenting a distinct line that blends delicate technique with solid hands. From the ground, the climb immediately demands attention, starting with thin edges that require precise footwork and controlled movement. As the flake widens under your hands, the holds bloom into secure, positive grips, setting a rhythm for the ascent that balances endurance with measured power.
The approach of the climb carries you along a terrain peppered with granite slabs and scrubby pines, typical of the Tollhouse area, where the Sierra’s rugged character is unmistakable. The mountain air is sharp and clear, while the occasional rustle of wind through sparse foliage punctuates the quiet. At the top of the flake, the route transitions to a 5.8 face climb, demanding fresh technique as you traverse onto the broad caprock summit. This final move offers both mental and physical challenge—testing balance and body positioning on smoother granite surfaces.
For those planning their ascent, Platinum Plus requires gear up to 3 inches, emphasizing the need for solid protection placements on the flake and face sections. The route’s moderate length of 60 feet keeps it manageable, making it a great choice for climbers looking to sharpen their crack and face climbing skills in a natural setting rich with alpine spirit. Given its 5.9- rating, the climb sits comfortably at the upper-intermediate level, suitable for climbers ready to push into more committed routes without excessive exposure or complexity.
A key to success here is respect for the rock’s texture and features. Granite at Tollhouse Rock is generally reliable, but protection placements demand attention and finesse—especially on the flake where your gear can be as subtle as the moves themselves. Timing your climb earlier in the day provides optimal conditions; the face receives sunlight moving steadily through the morning, allowing for warm, dry rock that enhances friction. Conversely, seasonal considerations favor late spring through early fall when the weather is stable, and the approach trails are clear of snow and mud.
Platinum Plus is not just a climb; it is a microcosm of the Southern Sierra’s alpine climbing ethos. The route encourages a tactical approach—balanced, straightforward, and rewarding. From the first thin holds to the final face move, this climb tests skill, patience, and attentiveness to the rock's character. It's an essential tick for trad climbers aiming to experience classic Sierra granite that mixes history, challenge, and the raw edge of the mountains.
Watch your gear placements carefully on the large detached flake—some cracks can look solid but require testing before weighting. The caprock top-out offers secure feet but limited handholds, so ensure good balance and focused climbing near the end to avoid slip risk.
Start climbs early to catch warm morning sunlight on the face section.
Use sticky rubber shoes to maximize grip on the smoother caprock top-out.
Carry trad protection up to 3 inches to cover the crack variations effectively.
Prepare for a rugged but short approach through granite slabs and sparse pine forest.
Bring a trad rack capable of protecting gear placements up to 3 inches. The route’s flake demands careful gear placement, focusing on nuts and cams that fit securely in thin to moderate crack widths. Fixed gear is minimal, so come prepared to build solid anchors.
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