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Planet Terror: A Bold Sport Climb in Alberta's Bow Valley

Bow Valley, Alberta Canada
sport
single-pitch
technical
limestone
Bow Valley
5.12a
bolted
short approach
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Planet Terror
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Planet Terror exposes climbers to a compact yet demanding 5.12a sport line hidden in Alberta's Apocalypse Cave. Its sharp, sustained moves and reliable protection make it a standout test for those ready to push boundaries in Bow Valley’s striking limestone arenas."

Planet Terror: A Bold Sport Climb in Alberta's Bow Valley

Planet Terror commands attention as a stark and powerful sport route carved into the rugged walls of The Apocalypse Cave in Alberta's Bow Valley. Its imposing line is immediately evident—a sharp contrast to nearby routes, offering a concentrated burst of technical movement. The climb stretches 80 feet, secured by eight bolts that guide you through powerful, sustained sequences that push your limits right from the start. With a 5.12a rating, this route challenges climbers with delicate footwork and demanding handholds, rewarding those with precise technique and calm focus.

Arriving at The Apocalypse Cave, the weathered rock feels alive, its surface textured and reliable, daring climbers to test endurance and composure. The setting immerses you in a raw, natural amphitheater carved by nature’s forces, just minutes from the lively hub of Bow Valley. The climb sits immediately left of The Chalking Dead, offering a distinct personality; it closes the left side of the cave before trajectories shift toward nearby PacMan Prophesy.

This single-pitch route is compact but intense, making it a perfect afternoon objective for experienced climbers ready to hone their sport skills on Alberta’s limestone. The bolts are closely spaced, ensuring reassuring protection even during the route’s most exacting moves. It’s an encounter that rewards preparation—expect precise beta, sticky shoes for adherence, and an early start to avoid crowds and afternoon warmth.

Planning your approach is straightforward. The cave is easily accessed from trailheads near Bow Valley, following well-marked paths that wind through open forest and rocky outcrops. The terrain varies but remains manageable, letting you save energy for the climb itself. Coordinate your gear carefully, focusing on quickdraws sized for sport climbing bolt placements and light chalk to maintain grip on the challenging holds.

Beyond the physical demands, Planet Terror invites a mental engagement with the line’s sharp edges and confident moves, a reminder that climbing here is as much about strategy as strength. The route offers a taste of Bow Valley’s unique climbing scene: accessible wilderness, a blend of adventure and technical challenge, all within reach of the Rocky Mountains’ spectacular backdrop. Ideal for climbers eyeing their next 5.12 breakthrough, it delivers a potent mix of focus, technique, and the unmistakable thrill of a route that refuses to be underestimated.

Climber Safety

Loose rock near the cave entrance requires attention—maintain helmet use during approach and while climbing to mitigate potential falling debris. Always inspect bolt hangers and anchors as this area sees seasonal wear from weather exposure.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and potential crowds in the cave.

Wear sticky rubber shoes for better friction on small holds.

Bring a chalk bag—holds tend to be sharp and require grip maintenance.

Check helmet fit—loose rock near the cave entrance calls for caution.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.12a rating on Planet Terror fits well with its sustained sequences and technical footwork. It has a stiff feel, especially early on, with a crux that demands commitment and precise movement. Compared to other Bow Valley climbs, it's a solid test of pure sport climbing skill without excessive reach moves—more about body position and clipping efficiency.

Gear Requirements

Eight fixed bolts provide solid and consistent protection throughout the pitch. Approach with at least 7 quickdraws and a standard sport rack. The bolts are spaced to cover sustained sequences, so precise clipping and clip management are essential.

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Tags

sport
single-pitch
technical
limestone
Bow Valley
5.12a
bolted
short approach