Adventure Collective

Plan B at Main Wall, Comox Lake

Comox, British Columbia Canada
finger crack
trad gear to 2 feet
single pitch
east-facing
morning sun
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Plan B
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Plan B is a focused trad climb on Vancouver Island’s Main Wall, presenting a single-pitch finger crack that rewards careful gear placement and technical finesse. Perfect for climbers seeking a direct challenge with practical access near Comox Lake."

Plan B at Main Wall, Comox Lake

Plan B invites climbers to tackle a focused traditional challenge set against the rugged backdrop of Vancouver Island’s Main Wall. This short, single-pitch route demands precise gear placement up to two feet, rewarding those who master finger crack techniques with a clean line to a modest ledge before finishing at the summit. The climb's lean profile stretches upward through a slim grove of rock, where every move calls for steady hands and keen eyes. Here, the rock is firm and awaiting careful jam placements, making the protection both essential and straightforward for those comfortable with larger cams. The modest height keeps the route approachable, while the finger crack itself offers a satisfying test of finesse and strength.

Located within the Comox Lake area, this climb sits within a forested zone at the edge of a freshwater reservoir that pushes you to immerse yourself in nature’s quiet pulse. The surrounding landscape emphasizes calm waters contrasted by the vertical rock’s defiant stance, making it an ideal destination for climbers seeking focused technical climbing without the distraction of a sprawling adventure. The atmosphere hums with the gentle rustle of nearby trees and the occasional water shimmer below, casting light that shifts the rock’s texture through the day.

Approaching the Main Wall is straightforward but demands attention; originate from the parking area near Comox Lake and thread the short trail that feeds quickly into the rock base. This proximity between trail and rock is a blessing for those packing thick shoes and extra gear. While the stretch is brief, expect mossy patches and uneven ground below that reward steady footing and thoughtful step placement.

Given the route’s technical demands, climbers should come prepared with a rack emphasizing larger cam sizes, especially those reaching out to two feet. The protection opportunities are reliable but call for precise placements along the finger crack. Because the climb runs on a single pitch, climbers can focus fully on their movements without breaking rhythm.

Timing plays a crucial part here. The Main Wall faces east, catching the morning sun and cooling off by mid-afternoon, which suggests early starts for the best grip and warmth through colder months. Summers deliver dry rock and extended daylight, while fall sees stable conditions but quicker cooling after sunset.

The descent is equally pragmatic — a short walk-off trail wraps back toward the parking lot, removing the need for rappelling and allowing climbers to stay grounded after their push. Still, caution is advised on the loose gravel that sometimes gathers near the base.

Overall, Plan B blends tangible physical challenge with straightforward logistics, making it a rewarding crack climb on Vancouver Island for those with trad familiarity. The setting offers quiet beauty and a practical day out for climbers eager to sharpen crack skills in a concentrated, approachable format.

Climber Safety

Watch for moss and damp patches near the trail and base, especially after rain. Ensure your gear placements are solid due to the route's reliance on longer cams; the rock is stable but demands attention to detail.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach from the Comox Lake parking lot and follow a short, mossy path directly to the base.

Start climbs early in the morning to catch sun on the route and avoid slippery cooling in the afternoon.

Check gear carefully for larger cam placements; the crack demands precise fits up to 2 feet.

Use solid footwear with good tactile sensitivity as footing can be uneven and mossy near the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10+
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.10+, Plan B offers a climb that feels true to its grade with a sustained finger crack that pushes technical skill without unexpected moves. It fits well alongside other Vancouver Island moderate trad climbs, leaning into protection challenges rather than pure crux difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack focusing on cams up to 2 feet to protect the finger crack reliably. Larger placements are necessary and sufficient without the need for fixed gear.

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Tags

finger crack
trad gear to 2 feet
single pitch
east-facing
morning sun