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Plaisir Automnal: A Classic Trad Climb Through Quebec's Layered Granite

Lanaudiere, Quebec Canada
trad
multi-pitch
slab
cracks
offset nuts
Quebec granite
moderate grade
Length: 245 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Plaisir automnal
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Plaisir Automnal is a three-pitch trad climb combining slab, bulging traverses, and generous cracks on solid granite rock. Located in Quebec’s Lanaudiere region, it offers both technical variety and a smooth flow, perfect for trad climbers seeking approachable multi-pitch adventure."

Plaisir Automnal: A Classic Trad Climb Through Quebec's Layered Granite

Plaisir Automnal offers an inviting trad climbing experience that blends technical variety with solid granite texture, making it a must-try in Quebec’s Lanaudiere region. This route unfolds over three distinct pitches, each delivering a unique flavor of challenge and movement that keeps climbers engaged from start to finish. The first two pitches flow together smoothly, allowing for a continuous push up slab surfaces, bulging traverses, and well-defined cracks. Expect your hands to explore everything from thin seams to full-bodied fissures, requiring a blend of balance, technique, and steady gear placements.

The climb begins on a delicate slab that demands precise footwork and patient gear management. As you gain height, the slab gives way to a dynamic traverse that sweeps left, testing both reach and composure on subtly overhanging rock. Here, the granite feels alive beneath your fingertips—cool and rough, offering just enough texture to keep your confidence steady. From this traverse, move straight up toward the bulge, where the route reveals a pronounced crack system threading upwards like a natural ladder. This crack is the defining feature of Plaisir Automnal, open and obvious, inviting fingers and hands to find purchase inside its depths.

A large ledge offers a brief rest before the final pitch, which continues upward through the fist-sized crack slightly to the left, culminating in a comfortable anchor point around 60 meters above the base. The landings and belay stations are generous and secure, easing transitions between pitches. Protection demands a well-rounded rack, from very small nuts to medium-sized cams, with offset nuts especially valuable for some of the trickier placements.

The setting itself, carved into the rugged contours of the Dalle Quatre Saisons sector, provides a quiet outdoor classroom for honing your crack climbing and trad lead skills. The rock’s solid nature and varied features create a climbing rhythm that invites focus while rewarding climbers with expansive views of the surrounding forested hills. The route’s moderate rating (5.6) keeps it accessible to trad climbers looking to stretch their legs on multi-pitch climbs with technical interest rather than raw difficulty.

Practical considerations include the use of a single 60-meter rope for two rappels to descend safely, and an approach that, while straightforward, can feel remote due to the serene atmosphere of the area. Timing your climb to avoid the afternoon sun is wise in warmer months, as the granite bakes in place otherwise. Layered clothing and reliable footwear suited to granite slab are recommended to keep comfort and safety aligned.

Whether you’re advancing your multi-pitch trad repertoire or simply looking for a solid day out on classic Quebec granite, Plaisir Automnal delivers a route that’s rewarding, manageable, and richly textured. Its accessible style and varied climbing sections make it an ideal choice for those eager to engage fully with the rock and the landscape around them.

Climber Safety

The granite is solid but pay attention to protection placements, especially where gear can be tricky in the bulge and offset crack sections. Two rappel anchors require a full 60m rope; ensure rappelling experience and knot skills before descending. Weather can change quickly—wet granite slabs become slippery and hazardous.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length245 feet

Local Tips

Combine the first two pitches for a continuous flow and save time on belay changes.

Bring a rack with a full spectrum of small to medium-sized protection; offset nuts are especially useful.

Plan your climb in the morning or late afternoon to avoid direct sun on the slab sections.

Two rappels with a 60m rope will get you down—check your rope length carefully before starting.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.6, Plaisir Automnal offers a moderate but engaging climb that feels well-graded. The combination of slab and crack climbing keeps the moves varied without stepping into harder territory. While the grade feels true to its style, the bulging traverse and crack sequences provide crux sections that briefly push effort and technique. Compared to other local climbs, this route strikes a friendly balance between approachable challenge and technical variety.

Gear Requirements

A well-rounded rack ranging from very small nuts to medium cams is essential. Offset nuts come in handy for tricky placements. Two rappels can be done efficiently with a single 60-meter rope.

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Tags

trad
multi-pitch
slab
cracks
offset nuts
Quebec granite
moderate grade