Pizza at Joe's Garage: A Classic Trad Climb in Welsford

Welsford, Canada
vertical crack
single pitch
trad climbing
bolted anchor
sandstone
crack technique
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Pizza
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Pizza offers a straightforward 50-foot trad climb that challenges your crack skills with a well-protected vertical line. Positioned between popular routes in Joe's Garage, it’s perfect for climbers looking to sharpen technique in a quiet, scenic New Brunswick setting."

Pizza at Joe's Garage: A Classic Trad Climb in Welsford

Pizza stands as a straightforward yet satisfying trad route tucked within the rugged expanse of Joe's Garage at Cochrane Lane Cliffs, Welsford. This single-pitch, 50-foot vertical crack climb presents a clean line rising between the neighboring routes, It's a Way of Life and Jack in a Box, inviting climbers to test their crack skills without excessive commitment. The climb begins with a solid crack that challenges you to find secure jams and delicate handholds, moving past a small roof where technique becomes key to maintaining upward momentum. Midway through, the line forces a subtle step right, providing a change in rhythm before the terrain eases, allowing a more relaxed finish to the top.

The climbing here is notably accessible, rated 5.5, making Pizza a reliable option for those refining their crack climbing or easing into traditional lead climbing. The protection is straightforward, relying on a standard rack to safeguard the ascent. This ease of gear placement, combined with the bolted anchor at the top, contributes to a reassuring sense of safety while climbing in this open cliff setting. The rock quality is solid, typical of Welsford’s sandstone, offering confident placements that reward careful footwork and technique.

Approaching Joe's Garage is an adventure in itself. The cliffs are set against Welsford’s rolling hills, where the sound of the wind rustling through mixed forest blends with distant bird calls. The trail to the base weaves through rocky terrain and patches of spruce, setting an alert but calm mood before you even clip a rope. A gentle morning sun hits the face, making early ascents pleasant, while afternoon climbs might call for more caution against warming rock.

Climbers will appreciate the modest length of Pizza, which serves as an efficient objective for a quick session or a warm-up before tougher challenges nearby. The climb’s rhythm offers enough variation—from vertical forceful jams to a relaxed finish—that it keeps both body and mind engaged without overwhelming. Top roping is also popular here, thanks to the fixed anchors, providing a perfect platform for practicing crack techniques.

Local wisdom suggests bringing gloves or taping hands, particularly if your crack climbing is still developing, as the vertical roof spot demands precise grip strength and body positioning. Footwear with sticky rubber and a sufficiently snug fit will make smearing and precise footholds more confident. Seasonal timing matters: late spring to early fall provides the best window, avoiding slippery rock after rain and the colder, brittle conditions of winter. Water and snacks for a midday break enrich the experience, given the approach’s moderate length and the area’s quiet charm.

Joe’s Garage’s subtle challenges and classic lines like Pizza make this a must-visit for trad climbers of all levels. It’s a route that quietly tests technique, rewards thoughtful placement, and leaves a lasting impression with its blend of ease and engagement, all set within the spectacular, understated beauty of New Brunswick’s climbing landscape.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the small roof section and ensure solid placements before committing, especially where protection can feel marginal. The approach terrain features uneven footing—stay alert to avoid slips.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Bring gloves or tape for the small roof section to protect your hands during jams.

Start early in the day to enjoy the morning sun on the face and cooler rock.

Use sticky rubber climbing shoes with a snug fit for precise foot placements.

Check weather forecasts; the sandstone becomes slick when wet and should be avoided after rain.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.5
Quality
Consensus:At 5.5, Pizza offers a comfortably moderate challenge for trad climbers. The grade feels true to the style with a brief technical crux at the roof requiring solid crack jamming. Compared to nearby climbs, it’s an accessible choice that doesn’t demand complex sequences but rewards clean technique and steady endurance.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack covers the climb effectively, with placements available along the vertical crack and a bolted anchor to secure the topout.

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Tags

vertical crack
single pitch
trad climbing
bolted anchor
sandstone
crack technique