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Pitch Black: A Bold Sport Climb on El Potrero Chico's Dramatic Wall

Nuevo León, Mexico
long pitches
sport climbing
multi-pitch
exposed
limestone
rappel stations
technical traverse
skull and crossbones
Length: 800 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
6
Location
Pitch Black
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Pitch Black carves a dramatic, six-pitch ascent up a dark, commanding limestone streak in El Potrero Chico. With sustained 5.10+ climbing and secure ledges for rests, this route challenges endurance and technique in equal measure."

Pitch Black: A Bold Sport Climb on El Potrero Chico's Dramatic Wall

Pitch Black in El Potrero Chico offers climbers a compelling journey that tests both endurance and technique across six sustained pitches. The route ascends a striking, dark streak running straight to the top of the wall, cutting a visible, commanding line in this celebrated northern Mexican climbing destination. At about 800 feet of climbing, the wall demands attention with its consistent rock quality, giving every pitch a rugged texture of solid limestone, peppered with well-placed bolts that guide you through varied terrain.

From the base, the first pitch sets the stage with a 5.9+ challenge over roughly 50 meters, easing you in while giving your fingers a clear sense of the route’s character—long reaches and subtle edges that test precise footwork. Moving upward, the second pitch steps up the intensity to a 5.10+ crux, forcing you to engage with steeper sequences that reward patience and commitment. By the third pitch, the climbing takes on a brisker rhythm with a 5.9 grade, linked seamlessly with a short cable traverse that demands careful balance, a technical feature that keeps the mind riveted.

The middle pitches showcase the route’s diversity: pitches four and six hit 5.10 and 5.10- respectively, where tension spikes with sustained moves and exposure. Particularly on pitch six, the rock beckons the climber onward with subtle pockets and crimps that require a steady hand and sharp focus on body positioning. Meanwhile, pitch five offers a bit of respite with 5.9 terrain across 25 meters, giving a chance to prepare for the final push.

Belay stations throughout are perched on generous ledges, providing safe and restful platforms with enough space to regroup, chalk up, and take in the impressive views of El Potrero Chico’s rugged landscape. Not to miss are the eerie blocks near the summit marked with skull and crossbones, an unmistakable signature serving as an unexpected waypoint toward the top.

For descent, the rappel system is extensive but complex, calling for a 70-meter rope to manage the varied lengths and intermediate anchors. Simul rappelling can extend your rope’s reach, helping you link stations efficiently. Chains secure most rappel stations, but careful route-finding is necessary to avoid mixing them up with belay points.

When planning your ascent, be ready for an all-day commitment. The approach is straightforward but expect exposure to sun depending on the time of day, so hydration and sun protection are essential. Footwear with sticky rubber will help navigate the sharper holds and smears. Early morning starts maximize cooler temperatures, while afternoon shade is limited on this face.

Pitch Black isn’t just a physical test; it’s a route that engages your mental edge as the black streak challenges you through persistent moves and manageable rests embedded in natural features. It suits experienced climbers familiar with moderate runouts, sustained climbing, and intricate protection logistics. In this, it echoes the best of El Potrero Chico — an intersection of adventure and smart strategy. Prepare well, move decisively, and you’ll find a rewarding day on one of Mexico’s standout sport routes.

Climber Safety

While all rappels are well-equipped, several intermediate stations can be mistaken for belays—know your rappel plan precisely to avoid getting stuck. Rock quality is generally excellent but remain cautious around the marked blocks near the summit, which can be loose. Summer afternoons bring strong sun exposure with little natural shade.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches6
Length800 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday heat on the exposed wall.

Bring at least 3 liters of water due to limited shade and heat.

Sticky rubber shoes help on slab and pocketed limestone.

Simul rappel to conserve rope and negotiate longer rappel stretches.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10+
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10+ grade feels on the stiffer side, particularly on pitches two, four, and six, which feature sustained sequences pushing climbers just beyond moderate limits. The route mixes several crux moves with easier climbing, balancing effort and recovery well. Comparatively, it fits solidly within El Potrero Chico’s mid-grade multi-pitch offerings, demanding steady technique and mental focus.

Gear Requirements

A 70-meter rope is essential to handle long pitches and rappels. Climbers will find bolts and anchors solid throughout, with chains securing all rap stations. Pay close attention to intermediate rappel stations which are not belays to avoid confusion during descent.

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Tags

long pitches
sport climbing
multi-pitch
exposed
limestone
rappel stations
technical traverse
skull and crossbones