"Pilfered Princess cuts a sharp arete on Yukon’s White Mountain, offering 36 feet of focused, technical climbing with solid protection and a clean finish. Perfect for climbers stepping up to 5.9 sport lines eager for a brisk mountain setting."
Set against the stark, raw backdrop of Yukon Territory’s White Mountain, Pilfered Princess offers an exhilarating sport climb that blends technical finesse with direct exposure. This single-pitch, 36-foot route cuts a clean line up a prominent arete that dares climbers to test balance and precision under northern skies. The climb begins with a steely bulge requiring tensioned movement along under clings and meticulous foot placements, demanding sharp focus right from the start. For those seeking an added challenge, an adjacent face climb pushes into a skinny 5.10b, sharpening finger strength and balance in a more delicate dance against the rock.
The rock’s texture is smooth but reliable, giving secure footholds along the arete as you ascend. As you move past the bolt protecting the bulge, the route opens up onto solid feet on the face. The final section features a corner that beckons climbers to latch onto solid handholds by the left side of a projecting block. With a confident reach, you can grab well-defined jugs and crank yourself to the summit anchors, where double rap rings await your descent.
Pika Palace, carved by the northern wilderness, rewards climbers with a raw, straightforward challenge framed by wide open skies and chilly mountain breezes. The rocky face is exposed to the elements, often kissed by shifting light and cooling winds, so timing your day is key—mornings bring crisp temperatures and firm grips, while afternoons can warm the stone enough to ease fingers but invite lingering mosquitoes.
Gear-wise, the protected route is bolted with four fixed bolts, offering a secure line that’s approachable yet engaging. The rap rings allow for a swift, straightforward descent. This climb is ideal for climbers who have a solid handle on 5.9 sport climbing, eager to sharpen edge control and movement efficiency on a short but compelling pitch.
When planning your trip, prepare for northern weather swings, pack layers, and ensure your shoes have sticky rubber for confident footholds. The approach to Pika Palace is straightforward but remote, so bring navigation tools and expect classic mountain solitude.
Pilfered Princess doesn’t just test your climbing finesse; it places you at a high-latitude rock face, where the land’s stillness pushes you to move deliberately and with intention. This is a climb that combines straightforward protection with honest movement, perfect for adventurers who want to connect to Yukon’s wild essence without long hauls or complicated routes.
The rock is generally sound, but the exposed arete leaves little room for error on footwork. Conditions can be slick when damp or icy, making shoes and timing critical. The single descent rappel requires familiarity with fixed anchors and proper rope management.
Start early to take advantage of firmer morning rock and avoid afternoon heat and bugs.
Layers are essential due to Yukon’s unpredictable summit conditions.
Bring a topo or GPS; the approach is remote with few marked trails.
Check weather forecasts closely—northern mountains can shift quickly.
The route is protected by four well-placed bolts topped with rap rings for straightforward descent. Climbing shoes with precise edging and sticky rubber will help with delicate footwork along the arete and face. A standard sport rack suffices here.
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