"Pet Shop Girls is a short, compelling trad climb on Pet Rock’s sun-warmed face in Joshua Tree. Challenging but accessible, it blends a sharp crack crux with a straightforward finish, offering a focused climb infused with the desert’s rugged charm."
Pet Shop Girls offers an adventurous escape on the rugged face of Pet Rock within Joshua Tree National Park. Positioned a few feet right of the well-known She's So Unusual, this short and stout trad route demands a sharp eye and steady hands. The climb begins at a vertical crack idling beneath a bulge that challenges your approach with a crux rated V1. Small cams are your allies here, protecting the tight seam where the rock demands precision and focus. Once past the bulge, the terrain eases, leading you upward and slightly left on a series of solid handholds that transition into lower-angled rock before reaching the summit.
This route compels climbers to balance trust in their gear with the confidence to move through sections where protection is sparse. It’s a compact but intense introduction to Joshua Tree's classic crack climbing, where the sun-bronzed granite hums warmth and rough texture through your fingertips. The anchor at the top requires medium cams and some rope management skills, rewarding climbers with solid and reliable gear placement for a secure descent.
Pet Shop Girls is ideal for those familiar with moderate crack climbing who want a quick yet satisfying traditional route. The brief pitch, lasting around 30 feet, is packed with movement that commands accuracy, making every reach and jam count. The climb's setting within Lost Horse Area offers a stark and silent environment where dry desert breezes and rugged rock keep you tethered to the raw essence of outdoor climbing.
Plan your climb to avoid the blazing midday sun that can bake the rock’s surface. Early morning or late afternoon sessions tend to provide the best grip conditions and shade, helping your hands stay fresh on the sharp edges. Footwear with stiff soles improves edging on the lower-angled sections, and bringing a well-rounded trad rack centered on small to medium cams covers protection needs here. After topping out, rappelling is a straightforward option, but be prepared to manage rope length wisely to avoid snags on the anchor gear.
Whether this is your first introduction to Joshua Tree’s trad routes or a quick warm-up before darker peaks beckon, Pet Shop Girls delivers a compact dose of classic crack climbing. Its blend of accessible length, protective challenges, and sun-dappled granite makes it a memorable part of any desert climbing itinerary.
The route has limited protection above the crux crack, so precise gear placement is essential. Be cautious on the bulge section where falls can be lengthy and risky. Anchor setup requires medium cams and careful rope management for a safe descent.
Start early or late in the day to avoid the hot afternoon sun on the rock.
Bring a rack focused on small to medium cams for reliable protection.
Use climbing shoes with stiff soles for better edging on slabs.
Prepare for a straightforward rappel down using medium cams for the anchor.
Small cams secure the crux crack and lower section effectively, while the upper part of the route is free of protection. Medium cams are needed at the anchor along with some rope for setup.
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