"Pesos y Pistolas offers a compact yet demanding sport climb near Monterrey with an awkward starting move that flows into eighty feet of technical granite climbing. Equipped with solid bolts and a fresh anchor, it invites climbers eager to test finger strength and precise footwork."
Pesos y Pistolas stakes its claim as a compelling sport climb tucked within the rugged corridors of Culo De Gato, in the shadow of Las Ventanas De Mina’s granite faces. From the moment you grip the wall, you’ll encounter an awkward launch—a move that tests commitment and balance before you settle into a powerful rhythm. The opening bouldery section demands compact strength and precision, setting the tone for what lies ahead. Beyond this initial crux, the route unfolds into approximately eighty feet of striking climbing where your fingers will engage with a variety of holds: sunk-in pockets that invite confident jams, small positive crimps that reward careful footwork, and a flake reminiscent of the iconic shapes found in Yosemite’s granite playgrounds. This flake is more than just a hold; it’s an anchor point in the climb’s flow, offering a mental and physical reprieve before the final stretch.
The protection on Pesos y Pistolas is thoughtfully placed, with solid bolts guarding each move and converging on a recently installed chain anchor to ensure a safe, confident top-out. At 90 feet, this single-pitch route packs a dense sequence of technical climbing that is well worth the effort for intermediate to advanced climbers aiming to sharpen their sport routes on Mexican granite.
Located roughly 25 minutes from Monterrey, Nuevo Leon’s climbing area often escapes international spotlight but rewards those who seek it. The approach to the crag is straightforward, with a short hike over rocky terrain that demands sturdy footwear and an eye for loose rock. Timing your ascent for early morning or late afternoon will temper the high desert sun, allowing you to focus on each move without the pounding heat.
Prepare for this climb with moderate hydration and shoes that combine sensitivity with secure edging—sticky rubber will serve well on the crimps and delicate pockets. Don't skimp on warming up elsewhere; Pesos y Pistolas demands sharp precision and core tension right from the start. While the grade reads 5.12a, the awkward initial move and powerful sequence elevate the challenge beyond a typical finger-intensive climb, rewarding those who bring both technique and persistence to the wall.
Beyond the pitch, the climbing region’s rugged character offers a quiet retreat into Mexico's northern wilderness. The stone here has an old, weathered feel, shaped by wind and sun, with Las Ventanas opening expansive views that reward effort with a moment of clarity and calm. Pesos y Pistolas could be your next test—a synthesis of mental resolve, physicality, and the elemental thrill of climbing where rock challenges and inspires in equal measure.
The approach trail has loose rocks and uneven footing; sturdy footwear is a must to avoid slips. Although the bolts are solid, always double-check the integrity of anchors, especially the newer chain anchor. Avoid climbing during midday heat, as the rock can become uncomfortably hot.
Start early to avoid the heat and take advantage of morning shade on the wall.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for optimizing edge and pocket holds.
Check the chain anchor before your top rope or lead to ensure safety.
Approach on solid hiking boots to handle loose, rocky terrain.
The route is secured by bolts spaced to protect the crux sections effectively, culminating in a recently installed chain anchor that simplifies the top-out. Bring a standard sport climbing rack including quickdraws and anchoring hardware.
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