"Pepe y Lupe offers a focused three-pitch climb along an unmistakable dihedral in El Potrero Chico. With a sustained 5.10c mid-pitch and solid bolt protection, it’s a must-try for climbers eager to experience a blend of technical movement and natural terrain in northern Mexico."
Pepe y Lupe is a compelling three-pitch sport climb that carves a line up the sharp dihedral on the edge of El Fin de Semana, known commonly as Weekend Wall, within the rugged expanse of El Potrero Chico. This route offers a precise blend of technical moves and thoughtful rests, inviting climbers to engage with the natural architecture of the rock while testing their endurance on a sustained 5.10c pitch.
Starting off with an approachable 5.8 pitch, the route ascends gentle terrain that follows the rock’s natural fall line, easing climbers toward an intimate belay niche situated just below the distinctive dihedral feature. This opening section provides a chance to settle in, get a feel for the rock’s texture, and prepare your muscles for the demanding second pitch. Alternatively, climbers seeking variation can warm up by taking the nearby Sheba Shite (5.9) or Same Same but Different (5.10c) routes, both of which merge at the same belay station.
The route’s heart reveals itself on the second pitch, where bolts outline a direct path up the pronounced dihedral. Here, steady smearing and precise stemming are your constant companions as you push through 100 feet of sustained climbing. The technical nature of this pitch rewards careful footwork and strategic body positioning, demanding concentration without any long breaks in difficulty. Arriving at a belay perched to the right with solid bolt anchors, you’ll find a moment to catch your breath before the final stretch.
Pitch three eases the intensity with a moderately difficult 5.9 climb ascending broken, blocky terrain that requires attentive route-finding as you move toward the top of the fin. The final 15 feet follow a narrow ridge line, compelling you to stay sharp and mindful of balance. At the summit, spot the rappel rings on the climber’s right side (south-facing) to begin your descent.
Descending is straightforward with a double-rope rappel that lands roughly 100 feet uphill from the route’s start, reconnecting you with the well-marked trailhead. The approach trail is manageable, making this climb accessible without excessive bushwhacking or scrambling.
Located in Northern Mexico’s El Potrero Chico—a magnet for climbers drawn by its towering limestone walls and open desert atmosphere—Pepe y Lupe captures the adventurous spirit of this climbing hotspot. While the route is bolted sport style, carrying a standard rack of quickdraws is sufficient. Expect sound protection on the line with no surprises, though the crux pitch demands respect and steady movement.
Plan your climb during the cooler months or early in the morning to avoid the relentless midday sun, as the route faces south and can become quite warm. Footwear with sticky rubber will enhance your smearing on the dihedral, and staying well-hydrated is essential in the dry climate. With moderate approach time and a rewarding sequence of pitches, Pepe y Lupe makes for a fulfilling day on the rock for intermediate to advanced climbers seeking a blend of technical climbing and strategic route-finding amidst one of Mexico’s premier climbing domains.
Beware of the exposure along the ridge on pitch three, where careful foot placement is crucial as the terrain becomes blocky and uneven. Check rappel rings before descending, and be mindful of loose rock potential near belay stations. Summer heat can quickly lead to dehydration—plan accordingly.
Start early in the day to dodge afternoon heat on the south-facing wall.
Sticky-soled climbing shoes enhance performance on the sustained smears and stems of pitch two.
Bring at least two ropes for the rappel and ensure your rappel rings are ready before descent.
Hydrate well and protect skin from sun exposure—shade is scarce on Weekend Wall.
A standard rack of quickdraws will cover protection needs here. The route is fully bolted, so you'll rely on drawn gear rather than traditional placements, making gear management straightforward.
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