Pegasus Climbing Route in l'Arène, Quebec

Quebec City, Canada
trad
crack climb
roof traverse
single pitch
east-facing
moderate protection
technical moves
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Pegasus
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Pegasus challenges climbers with a striking V-shaped crack start and a traverse beneath roofs, offering a single pitch of varied cruxes in the heart of l’Arène. This route blends technical gear placements with dynamic moves, rewarding focused effort in a stunning Quebec climbing area."

Pegasus Climbing Route in l'Arène, Quebec

Pegasus offers a striking, focused challenge right at the heart of l’Arène, standing just left of the imposing Goliath and narrowly separated from a bolted project by only a couple of meters. This distinctive single-pitch trad climb spans 90 feet, beginning with a commanding V-shaped crack about two meters above the ground—a move that demands trust in your spotter and precise footwork, especially if you're on the shorter side. From there, the rock directs you to a small ledge before a face section fortified with two bolts ushers you beneath a sequence of sheltering roofs. Navigating left under these overhangs, you reach a second ledge framed by a solitary tree, a quiet moment before the final push up the face to a single bolt and the top anchor ring.

Each section of Pegasus holds its own test, from the initial physical and committing reach up the crack, to the protection placements that require a confident hand and thoughtful gear choices. The climb calls for a rack focused on a single set of cams, with doubles for smaller sizes ranging from .2 to .5, balancing good placements with the exposure. The route’s progression is marked by distinct cruxes, never repetitive, each demanding a different blend of strength, technique, and mental focus.

Beyond the technical demands, Pegasus sits in the lively climbing area of Quebec City’s Charlevoix region, recognized for its varied rock faces and natural charm. The approach places climbers at the center of a mixed landscapescape, combining exposed vertical granite with pockets of forested calm. As you ascend, the rock surface seems to engage directly, challenging each move with fresh character—the crack daring your fingers and the roofs offering shadowed obstacles that test your route-finding.

For those ready to embrace this route, plan your climb in spring through early fall to avoid early-season moisture or late frost, which can make holds slippery or gear placements uncertain. The route faces mostly east, catching morning light and cooling during warmer afternoons—ideal for early starts. Footwear with solid edging and sticky rubber will boost confidence on the face sections, and bringing a partner who can offer calm, steady spotting is essential for the opening moves. Approach trails are well marked but require a brief 15-20 minute hike over uneven terrain.

Pegasus blends adventure with a passing nod to security—its bolts and anchors are well maintained but the line resists overprotection, rewarding climbers ready to commit and place gear thoughtfully. If you’re prepared to read the rock and trust your instinct, this climb delivers a memorable balance of movement variety and natural beauty without overwhelming with length or complexity.

Whether you’re ticked many trad routes or stepping into l’Arène for the first time, Pegasus demands attention, focus, and a readiness for technical climbing that dazzles without distraction. It’s a route that invites you to fully inhabit the rock and the moment, a brief but rich dialogue with Quebec’s granite that leaves a lasting impression.

Climber Safety

Pegasus requires careful gear placement early on; the area where the second cam goes is exposed and demands confidence. Avoid climbing when the rock is damp or after heavy rain, as the cracks can trap moisture and reduce friction. The second ledge under the roofs has limited space—watch your stance and do not overload the tree for support.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Bring a spotter for the initial moves up the V-shaped crack, especially if you’re not tall.

Start your climb in the morning to take advantage of the east-facing light and cooler conditions.

Approach trail is uneven but markers are clear—allow 15-20 minutes from the trailhead.

Double-check your smaller cams (.2 to .5) as they are critical for protection on the trickier roof traverse.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11+
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11+ rating on Pegasus feels fitting given the diverse cruxes spread throughout the climb. The opening crack challenges shorter climbers and presents a bold protection sequence, making the route feel a step harder in this section. The roof traverse afterward offers a physical and technical crux that justifies the stiff rating. Climbers familiar with similar Charlevoix trad routes will find this climb demanding but fair, with a very deliberate rhythm between protection and movement.

Gear Requirements

Carry a single rack with doubles in the smaller sizes from .2 to .5. The placements can be committed on the upper crack and face sections, so precise gear and good judgment are essential.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Pegasus and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad
crack climb
roof traverse
single pitch
east-facing
moderate protection
technical moves