"Peasant's Route beckons trad climbers with a demanding left-facing corner and a potent 5.10c layback crux. Five pitches of solid granite offer engaging moves and sweeping views, perfectly balancing technical climbing with access and exposure."
Peasant's Route on The Chief delivers a striking blend of technical challenge and raw vertical exposure that beckons every trad climber ready to push their limits in Squamish's iconic granite arena. The climb launches with a demanding left-facing corner, its smooth surface testing your footwork and balance as you ascend to a narrow ledge promising a moment's rest. From this starting point, the route intensifies quickly with its defining crux on the second pitch—a committing 5.10c layback that forces precise hand jams and body positioning, rewarding careful movement with the thrill of execution. Beyond this, four shorter pitches wind their way upward, threading through a sequence of well-protected cracks and corners that keep your gear placements secure but demand attention to detail. The full 420-foot climb not only challenges your technique but immerses you in expansive views and the robust spirit of The Chief's rock face.
Approaching the climb requires a steady trek through the Grand Wall Base Area, where the forest hums with life and the scent of damp pine sharpens your senses. The trail itself is moderate in difficulty, offering firm footing until the unmistakable granite slabs declare the start of your ascent. Expect about 20 minutes to reach the base, allowing enough time to settle in, chalk up, and mentally prepare.
Protection is straightforward yet essential for safety and confidence here—bring a rack of cams and several slings to negotiate tricky placements in the corner and cracks. The rock is solid but polished in areas, requiring nuanced gear placements that reward experience and patience. On a busy day, the route sees steady traffic, but its five pitches offer a gratifying vertical journey that feels both demanding and accessible.
Descending is practical with a single 60-meter rope rappel from the summit, sweeping you safely back to the base. Timing your climb to avoid the intense midday sun is wise, as the wall faces west and basks in afternoon heat during summer months. Spring and fall offer the best conditions with cooler temperatures and less crowded access trails.
Peasant's Route stands as a reliable testpiece—call on your crack climbing skills, stay mindful of the polished rock, and savor the expanding panorama with every upward move. For trad climbers aiming to explore The Chief beyond the well-trodden classics, this route brings a fresh slice of Squamish’s rugged heart, balancing excitement with practical attention to detail.
Watch for slick granite on the initial corner pitch and remain vigilant when placing protection; some gear placements can be marginal on polished rock. The rappel requires a full 60m rope and careful setup at anchor points for a safe descent.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the west-facing wall.
Bring a 60m rope for a single rappel descent from the top.
Double-check cam placements in polished sections for security.
Prepare for moderate approach trail with firm footing and occasional roots.
Essential rack includes cams and slings for secure placements in corners and cracks. Polished rock sections call for extra care when placing gear and trusting placements.
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