HomeClimbingPas de Panique

Pas de Panique: Face Climbing Adventure at Le Petit Mur

Val-David, Quebec Canada
face climbing
single pitch
fixed protection
top rope friendly
Laurentians
Quebec climbing
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Pas de Panique
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Pas de Panique offers a compact but sharp face climb on the far left of Le Petit Mur. This 40-foot route blends accessible protection with engaging moves, perfect for climbers seeking technical challenges in Quebec’s Laurentians."

Pas de Panique: Face Climbing Adventure at Le Petit Mur

Pas de Panique stakes its claim on the far left edge of Le Petit Mur in the La Bleue sector, carving out 40 feet of focused face climbing that challenges and rewards in equal measure. This single-pitch classic draws climbers with its clean lines and engaging features, where every hold presents an opportunity to balance precision and power. The rock rises sharply, inviting you to read its subtle rests and pockets, making it an ideal route for those looking to sharpen their technical skills without overreaching into overwhelming territory. The climb sits comfortably in the 5.10+ grade range, pushing you just past your comfort zone with a few crux moves that demand careful foot placement and solid hand jams.

Accessing the climb is straightforward with a reliable fixed anchor and three well-spaced bolts protecting the line. This enhances safety without demanding excessive rack weight, perfect for climbers who prefer light setups. The route also offers the flexibility of a top-rope setup, easily achieved by descending slightly to the skier’s right of the viewing platform at the summit of La Bleue, making it a practical choice for training or less confident followers.

Le Petit Mur’s location in Val-David places this climb within a natural playground known for crisp air and vibrant seasons, where the Laurentians stretch around you like a quiet companion. The wall faces a favorable aspect, receiving ample sun in the morning and shifting into shade by afternoon, providing comfortable climbing windows especially in spring and early fall. Surrounded by forest scents and the occasional birdsong, the climb allows you to stay grounded in the outdoors while focusing on the challenge directly ahead.

Practical considerations come into play with variable rock texture—mostly solid but occasionally featuring pockets that demand cautious testing. The fixed protection means you can focus on movement rather than gear fiddling, but it’s wise to bring a standard rack plus draws to clip into the bolts seamlessly. An approach through gentle trails leads to the base in about 15 minutes, passing by quiet woods and offering glimpses of nearby viewpoints, setting an anticipatory tone before you even clip the first bolt.

Pas de Panique isn’t a test of endurance but a lesson in control and technique, an accessible yet satisfying climb that fits a range of abilities. Whether you’re topping out under a bright sky or lowering off into shaded calm, the route leaves a clear impression: climbing here is about rhythm, focus, and enjoying a crisp slice of Quebec’s climbing heritage with every move. Prepare well, keep your shoes grippy, and savor the steady pull of the wall as it demands your attention.

Climber Safety

Though protection is fixed and reliable, always check bolt integrity before climbing. The rock quality is generally sound but expect some pockets with less solid edges—test holds as you go. The top anchor’s descent requires care when lowering or setting a top rope; stay clear of loose terrain around the summit area.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early to climb in cooler morning shade before sun hits the wall.

Approach via the well-marked trail to the right of La Bleue’s viewing platform.

Use sticky-soled shoes to maximize friction on the face’s subtle features.

Consider top roping by descending to the skier’s right of the summit platform for an easy setup.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10+
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10+ rating is spot on, with a few moves that test finger strength and precise footwork. It feels slightly stiff compared to other local climbs, mostly due to a compact crux near the middle where body tension is key. Climbers familiar with nearby sport routes will find it a manageable but engaging step up with added trad elements.

Gear Requirements

The route features a fixed anchor and three bolts spaced along the climb. The equipped relais simplifies anchors, so a standard trad rack supplemented with quickdraws for the bolts ensures efficient protection.

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Tags

face climbing
single pitch
fixed protection
top rope friendly
Laurentians
Quebec climbing