"Papyrus presents a compelling two-pitch trad climb at Kama Lookout, blending a perfect hand crack with a demanding wide chimney and a broad dihedral. Climbers will find both technical smarts and bold moves on this distinctive granite route."
Papyrus carves a distinctive route up the Paper Wall’s rugged face just off Kama Lookout, delivering a two-pitch climb that balances technical hand jams with adventurous chimney moves. From the get-go, you’re greeted by a slab featuring a flawless hand crack—long, inviting, and demanding precise finger work and steady foot placement. This crack extends just enough to test your patience before pushing you into an unexpected transition: a wider, dirt-streaked chimney that beckons with a gritty challenge. It may look wide, but Papyrus keeps you on your toes, refusing to let the climb settle into easy groove.
The first belay perch sits on a ledge tucked to the far right, perfect for regrouping but requiring careful positioning to safeguard against loose debris. Pitch two ventures across this dirt-covered ledge, then ascends a striking, broad right-facing dihedral. Here, you’ll rely on a blend of sustained face holds on either side to steady your upward push. The climbing demands judicious balance and attention, with subtle shifts between crack jams and face holds. The final section ventures up and right through a loose chimney that pushes you onto the cliff’s summit. Be ready to place large cams here, especially when establishing the anchor where solid gear is limited.
Located within the sprawling Ontario North Bouldering and Rock area, Papyrus showcases the raw character of Northern Ontario’s granite. The cliff’s northern exposure keeps the stone cool and tacky, often shaded in the morning and gaining gentle warmth by afternoon. The remote setting encourages climbers to embrace the surrounding wilderness, with views stretching out across undisturbed forest and the distant Kama Bay.
For gear, a full rack of cams is crucial, with a strong recommendation to pack extra large sizes (#3, #4, and #5) to secure those wider cracks and chimney placements. Protection can be sparse in spots, especially on the upper chimney exit, so careful assessment and solid placements are key. Expect some loose rock on the ledge and near the chimney—test every hold before committing.
Access to the climb involves a moderate approach from Kama Lookout, following well-marked trails through mixed conifer and deciduous stands. The path cuts through uneven terrain sprinkled with roots and rock, taking around 20 minutes on foot. GPS coordinates at 48.99204, -88.02025 mark the base. Climbers should plan for a full day outing, bringing layered clothing to adapt to shifting sun and shade.
Descent requires a double rope rappel from the anchor atop the cliff, with gear saved specifically for this purpose. Alternatively, a careful downclimb via a fixed approach trail is possible but demands attention to loose rock and tricky footing, particularly after rain.
Papyrus offers a gratifying blend of crack climbing and technical face moves that suit seasoned trad climbers looking for a route that calls for both finesse and bold decisions. While it grades at 5.9, the dirty chimney and exposed sections add a mental edge that may feel deserving of extra respect. It stands apart from many clean crack routes nearby in its combination of varied terrain and the need to adapt mid-climb.
Loose rock on the dirt-covered ledge and chimney zone calls for cautious testing of every hold. Watch footing during the approach descent and when downclimbing to avoid slips, especially after wet weather.
Scout and clean loose rock on the ledge before committing to the belay.
Start early to avoid lingering morning shade and allow the rock to warm.
Double ropes make rappelling smoother from the top; save large cams specifically for anchors.
Wear sturdy shoes with sticky rubber for slab friction and chimney scrambles.
Bring a comprehensive cam rack including extra-large sizes (#3 to #5) to protect the wide cracks and chimney. Large cams are essential for building the top anchor. Rope doubles recommended for rappelling.
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