Carving a compelling alternative approach to the Squamish Buttress crux pitch, Pan Tease Lower offers climbers a fresh and far more engaging route than the usual uninspired standard trail. This four-pitch trad climb stretches roughly 500 feet through varied terrain, testing both finesse and endurance as it climbs into the heart of British Columbia’s rugged granite. The route builds steadily, rewarding thoughtful gear placements and precise movement with spectacular exposure and technical sequences.

From the base, the first pitch unfolds with a 5.10b challenge, where the rock’s shifting character demands control. Starting up a v-slot, climbers move past scattered brush onto a clean slab peppered with bolts guiding upward and sideways through a small roof, then a bold rightward traverse leads to two well-placed bolts. The friction here is sharp, and every move feels purposeful, compelling you to stay light on your feet.

Pitch two softens slightly to 5.9 but remains technical, requiring a careful step rightward into a groove, followed by a committed traverse across a slab with a pin and bolt protecting the way. The line then bends right again, offering a breath of relief at a pair of bolts beneath a modest overlap.

On pitch three, at 5.10b, the crux appears in the form of a tricky mantle over an overlap, which some climbers opt to aid when conditions get slippery. Once past this, the path extends across a slab beneath a tree draped with ancient slings—a quiet marker of those who came before. Linking this pitch to pitch four is very doable with the right use of slings, sparing time and energy.

Pitch four drops down in difficulty to a straightforward 5.7, ascending directly to a bolt belay perched on a towering cedar. Climbers here can catch their breath and admire the dense forest canopy framing the ascent.

The final pitch heats back up to a solid 5.10c—the highlight of the route. It starts with a leftward step into a short but committed handcrack. Just to the right, a hanging flake hints at even harder challenges, rated 11+, though climbers focus on the varied corner ahead. This final stretch demands a mix of stem, layback, and jams as it climbs in elegant moves to the chains above. From there, the route offers a choice: continue into an enticing network of cracks rated from 5.10c to 5.12a or divert to the less demanding Butt-Face pitch (5.9), accessed by a brief scramble down and a short rappel to its base.

Protection on Pan Tease Lower is straightforward yet essential—2 sets of Camalots from .3 to #1, plus singles of #2 and #3 sizes, along with long slings for tricky placements and extending gear around flakes and overlaps. The granite here demands crisply placed protection; some areas, particularly around the overlap on pitch three, can grow damp, making well-planned placements and careful moves critical.

Located in the iconic Squamish Buttress area, this line slices through a climbing landscape renowned for steep granite faces and rich climbing heritage. Its proximity to the town of Squamish allows climbers quick access to amenities and lodging while soaking in the raw Pacific Northwest wilderness. The Buttress wall faces roughly west, catching the afternoon sun and cooling shade by early evening—ideal timing for climbs in summer and early fall.

Descending Pan Tease Lower involves a combination of rappels and a short walk-off from the belay ledge at the top, with fixed anchors in place but always verify slings and webbing for wear. The descent path skirts cliff edges, so careful attention is mandatory, especially when handling ropes or negotiating slippery sections.

Pan Tease Lower is an adventure in tactical climbing across fine granite, blending bold moves with smart protection and a rewarding view that captures the spirit of Squamish climbing. It invites challengers ready to explore beyond the beaten path, promising a climb that’s not just a route but a story etched in stone.