HomeClimbingPamplemousse

Pamplemousse

Hatzic, British Columbia Canada
trad
dynamic move
bolt
runout
short pitch
technical
Fraser Valley
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Pamplemousse
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Pamplemousse is a compact but demanding trad climb at Hatzic Prairie known for its signature dynamic move above a lone bolt. A test of precision and boldness, it delivers a quick hit of technical climbing with minimal protection in a quiet British Columbia setting."

Pamplemousse

Pamplemousse stands as a tight, powerful trad climb carved into the rugged rock of Hatzic Prairie. This brief but intense route demands precision and commitment, spotlighting a singular, bold move that defines the ascent. From the ground, you start by bouldering up sloping edges that test your balance and footwork, leading to a lone bolt standing sentinel mid-wall. Here, the infamous crux awaits: a dynamic, gymnastic move that pushes you beyond comfort, demanding control and focus to latch onto the hold just out of reach. Beyond this critical passage, the wall eases into easier climbing with some runout sections, allowing a bit of breathing space as you make your way up to the anchors shared with Jack's Crack.

The rock’s texture is gritty, offering just enough friction to trust your smears and edges, but the sparse protection ups the mental challenge. A yellow TCU or small wired nuts will keep you from a harsh fall above the bolt, a critical piece of advice for managing risk here. The route covers a compact 50 feet but requires climbers to bring their full attention to every movement—it’s all about timing and body positioning rather than endurance.

Located in the Fraser Valley region of British Columbia, this climb benefits from a moderate climate with early spring and late fall providing crisp air that keeps your fingers sharp. The site's openness gives plenty of sun exposure mid-day but watch out for sudden weather shifts common in this area. The approach is straightforward, following a short walk through a mixed forest and rocky terrain that prepares you mentally for the technical demand of the route ahead.

Climbers seeking an adrenaline punch packed into a short pitch will appreciate Pamplemousse’s combination of physical challenge and mental game. Its relative seclusion in a peaceful provincial setting discourages crowds, making your ascent a quiet negotiation between you and the rock. If you’re equipped with precise trad gear, comfortable on 5.10d moves, and eager to engage a big move that sets this climb apart, Pamplemousse is ready to test your skills and leave you craving more sharp-edged adventure in the Fraser Valley.

Climber Safety

Due to sparse protection above the bolt and runout sections, climbers should use a yellow TCU or similar gear to back up the bolt to prevent a dangerous fall. The rock is solid but committing, so ensure your gear placements are sound before pushing past the crux.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Bring a small rack with micro to small nuts and a yellow TCU for optimal protection.

Start early in the day to avoid the afternoon sun heating the rock surface.

Focus on foot placement before committing to the dynamic crux move.

Check weather forecasts closely; sudden humidity can make holds slippery.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d rating on Pamplemousse reflects a crux that feels stiff and demands confident technique with a bold reach over the bolt. While the climbing beyond is easier, the runout sections require mental steadiness. Compared to other local offerings, it’s a punchy single-pitch route that favors precision over sustained difficulty.

Gear Requirements

One bolt at the crux, with a yellow TCU and small wired nuts recommended to reduce runout risk above the bolt.

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Tags

trad
dynamic move
bolt
runout
short pitch
technical
Fraser Valley