HomeClimbingPainted Black

Painted Black: A Bold Trad Challenge on Cochrane Lane Cliffs

Welsford, Canada
trad
single pitch
bolted crux
PG gear
northwest facing
shared anchor
Length: 85 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Painted Black
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Painted Black challenges climbers with a focused 85-foot trad route blending bolt-protected crux moves with sustained gear placements above. Its dark, commanding face on Cochrane Lane cliffs offers a balanced test of skill and mental steadiness in a stunning New Brunswick setting."

Painted Black: A Bold Trad Challenge on Cochrane Lane Cliffs

Painted Black carves a striking path across Cochrane Lane Cliffs’ dark face, standing out as a singular test of control and composure for Trad climbers in the Welsford region. From the base, the blackened wall commands attention—stark and unyielding, it dares you to engage its sheer, 85-foot length. The route punctuates its steely profile with three fixed bolts placed strategically around the crux, offering moments of security amid predominantly traditional protection. Beyond the initial challenge, the climb eases into featured cracks and flakes, inviting climbers to settle into a rhythm as they approach the shared anchor with A Never Ending Story.

Starting with deliberate moves around the bolts—where precision and calm are vital—this 5.9 PG13 route tests your ability to read the rock and place gear wisely above the bolts, where protection becomes more dependent on solid placements. The route’s texture, gritty and coarse, rewards confident smears and carefully balanced footwork. The wall faces northwest, catching afternoon light that highlights subtle ridges and pockets, while the surrounding Cochrane Lane cliffs open out to panoramic views of the lush canopy below and the distant ridgelines. The approach through the Gallery Wall area is straightforward but requires attention, trekking across rocky ledges with sparse markings that encourage a steady pace and a clear eye for trail signs.

Climbers venturing here should be prepared for the route’s unique character— it blends accessible bolt protection for the crux with the commitment of placing PG-rated trad gear higher up, making it a solid mid-grade challenge where mental focus is as important as physical skill. The rock’s condition is consistently sound, but the PG13 rating signals a need for respect and readiness to commit to placements that might test runners’ opinions. The descent wraps up with a shared rappel—double-rope down the anchor point, smoothly returning you to the base with minimal fuss.

For those eyeing Painted Black, timing matters. Afternoons bring warming sun to the face, drying moisture quickly and emphasizing friction, while spring through early fall holds the most stable weather conditions for a clean send. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential, and a rack equipped for traditional placements—ranging from small cams to larger, uncertain crack sizes—is the pathway to success. Hydrate well and leave space in your pack for the steady effort this climb demands. Painted Black is a measured dance on a formidable wall, giving climbers a vital blend of challenge and reward in one of New Brunswick’s lesser-frequented climbing gems.

Climber Safety

While the bolts at the crux provide some security, the upper section requires well-placed PG gear with limited opportunities for easy protection. Ensure your gear is trustworthy and your placements are solid—loose gear or hesitation here could lead to a long swing or fall. The rappel uses a single shared anchor; double-check webbing and bolts before descending.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length85 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail is rocky and unmarked in sections—use GPS coordinates to stay on route.

Afternoon sunlight enhances friction on the northwest-facing wall, ideal for climbing.

Bring a rack with a broad selection of cams from small to medium sizes for the crack above the bolts.

Prepare for a single rappel descent from the shared anchor with A Never Ending Story.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade here feels accurate with added mental weight from the PG13 protection above the bolts. The crux is straightforward but demands precise footwork and body positioning on the bolts, while the upper section calls for confident gear placement under commitment. Compared to other Welsford trad lines at this grade, Painted Black leans slightly harder due to the protection style, making it a solid stepping stone for trad climbers expanding their lead confidence.

Gear Requirements

Three bolts provide key protection through the crux section, but above these, climbers should be ready for PG-rated trad gear placements. A range of cams and nuts, particularly medium sizes, are advisable to secure this 85-foot pitch safely.

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Tags

trad
single pitch
bolted crux
PG gear
northwest facing
shared anchor