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Owner Beware - Trad Climb at Lower Infirmary Slabs

Lyons, Colorado United States
crack climb
exposed move
small cams
PG13
single pitch
Colorado trad
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Owner Beware
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Owner Beware is a compact and engaging trad crack that challenges with subtle protection and a bold exposed move. Located at Lower Infirmary Slabs, this 5.8 PG13 pitch rewards precise gear placement and smooth technique within an accessible Colorado canyon."

Owner Beware - Trad Climb at Lower Infirmary Slabs

Owner Beware offers a focused, single-pitch trad climb set on the Lower Infirmary Slabs, tucked within the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado. This 100-foot route presents a hands-on crack climb that challenges both gear selection and movement with care and precision. Starting on a clean crack that transitions into an exposed step right, climbers are engaged by a bulging obstacle capped by a small overhang before topping out at a solitary tree. The crack's rhythm invites steady, deliberate placements—all within a compact but varied line that rewards attention to detail. A red Camalot fits snugly under a distinctive shrub around the climb’s midsection, a key piece for protection on the route’s more exposed moves. Despite its relatively modest length, the climb punches above its weight with a PG13 rating, warning of some runout sections where precision and judgment guide the lead.

The rock’s temperature shifts through the day, with morning light gradually illuminating the wall’s southern face, warming the slab as the sun rises. The approach trail follows a forested path weaving through pine and scrub oak, with striking views of the South Fork at the base that call for a moment of appreciation before the ascent begins. The descent requires a careful scramble west of the summit tree; the terrain encourages cautious footing as loose rock and brush come into play. This climb is a practical choice for trad climbers seeking solid crack technique practice without excessive committing exposure—though the commitment level is not to be underestimated given the PG rating.

For preparation, light rack options focused on small cams will serve best, balancing readiness with the climb’s limited placements. Footwear with sensitive edging performs well on the slab moves, and timing your climb to avoid the afternoon heat can make the experience more comfortable. The route’s proximity to Lyons means logistical ease, but climbers should prepare for quick weather changes common to the region. Owner Beware is a concise classic that prefers quality over quantity, demanding a precise but measured approach to protect the delicate harmony between climber and rock.

Climber Safety

Protection is sparse in places with runout potential, especially through the bulge and exposed step right. Be prepared for ledge hunting on the descent scramble, where loose rock and brush can increase risk.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon sun warming the slab excessively.

Bring a light rack with a focus on small cams for tight placements.

Scramble off west from the summit tree cautiously—loose rock can be tricky.

Check local weather forecasts as canyon conditions can shift quickly.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 PG13 rating emphasizes runout sections with protection that requires deliberate placements. While the technical moves aren’t steep, the route demands solid crack climbing skills and a calm approach to the exposed right step above the shrub. Compared to nearby climbs in the Lower Infirmary area, Owner Beware offers slightly more commitment despite its moderate grade.

Gear Requirements

Minimal rack required, focusing on small cams. Key piece is a red Camalot placed under the mid-route shrub, essential for protection on the exposed rightward move.

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Tags

crack climb
exposed move
small cams
PG13
single pitch
Colorado trad