"Overbite demands power and precision as it threads past two dramatic roofs on the Avalon Peninsula. This 60-foot single-pitch trad line offers a sharp crux over a bolted lip before easing into easier terrain, perfect for climbers ready to test their roof skills in a wild coastal setting."
Set against the rugged backdrop of Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula, Overbite offers trad climbers a challenge that’s equal parts technical and rewarding. This single-pitch, 60-foot climb pulls you under and over a pair of distinctive roofs, demanding careful gear placements and precise movement. From the approach, the exposed lip of the primary roof commands attention, hinting at the upper crux ahead. Starting below a small overhang, the route quickly shifts into steep terrain where a bolt provides a reliable clip before you reach the more imposing roof above. Here, a stout glue-in bolt guards the lip and serves as an essential clip point for the crux move – a powerful pull that tests your strength and technique.
Above the lip, the terrain eases but still requires focused footwork to navigate past a final bolt and onto less steep rock that leads to the top. The rock quality is solid, with cracks and edges that accommodate a full rack of cams or tri-cams, making protection straightforward but vital for safety. The anchor setup is gear-based, so preparation for placing solid gear at the anchors is necessary.
The setting itself adds to the climb’s appeal: the Stiles Cove area on the Avalon Peninsula feels remote yet accessible, with rugged coastal views offset by the forested trails that bring you close. The latitude here supports a climbing season that runs best from late spring into early fall, avoiding the early season brisk winds common to the region.
When preparing for Overbite, consider the technical nature of roof climbing. It’s an excellent test piece for those looking to refine their roof pulling skills in a trad environment. Footwear with sticky rubber and comfortable fit is recommended to maintain confidence on the small edges and smear zones between the roofs. Hydration is essential but expect the approach trail to be moderate in length, winding through mixed terrain that provides shade early in the day.
Overall, Overbite offers a compact but intense experience that balances physical challenge with the satisfaction of moving through a dynamic section of vertical terrain. It’s a perfect single-pitch project for trad climbers visiting Newfoundland who want to push their limit while taking in a wild coastal climbing spot seldom crowded and full of character.
Watch your gear placements carefully beneath the roofs, especially in the roof crux section where falls could be pendulum-heavy. The glue-in bolt is reliable, but the rest of the gear requires proper sizing and placement to ensure safety. Be mindful of wet rock from coastal spray or rain which can make holds slippery.
Start early to avoid wet or cold morning conditions along the approach trail.
Carry sticky-soled climbing shoes for better grip on small footholds inside the roofs.
Place gear thoughtfully; cams behind roofs require extra attention due to rope drag.
Check weather forecasts—wind can pick up quickly on the peninsula, impacting climbing comfort.
Protection requires a full rack of cams or tri-cams plus three bolts including a glue-in bolt at the lip. Anchors are gear-based, so be prepared to build a solid anchor with traditional gear.
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