HomeClimbingOut of the Darkness

Out of the Darkness: Technical Precision on Squamish’s Monastery Wall

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
technical
dihedral
sport climbing
single pitch
5.12a
positive holds
rest spots
clipping stances
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Out of the Darkness
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Out of the Darkness offers a focused, technical introduction to 5.12a on Squamish’s renowned Monastery Wall. This single-pitch sport route challenges climbers with precise movement through a tight dihedral and sweeping rails, making it an excellent milestone for pushing into harder grades."

Out of the Darkness: Technical Precision on Squamish’s Monastery Wall

Out of the Darkness stands as a striking introduction to the demanding 5.12a realm, set on Squamish’s iconic Monastery Wall—a vertical playground carved into the Sea to Sky corridor linking Vancouver to Whistler. This sport climb packs a technical punch within its single 50-foot pitch, offering a compact but intense challenge for those ready to tackle a first 12a grade.

The route’s opening invites climbers into a tight dihedral where a substantial right-facing rail dominates the corner. Here, your hands find secure purchase, giving a solid initial groove that sets the tone for what follows. Moving upward, you follow the dihedral’s natural line, negotiating balance and precision as the rock shifts from diagonal edges to a clean vertical face. Positive holds and confident foot placements ease the progression along a broad left-arching rail, demanding careful sequencing but rewarding steady rhythm.

The final sequence draws close attention. These tricky moves to the anchor require hold-finding skills and practiced beta to conquer, yet the route balances difficulty with approachable clipping stances and well-earned rests. It’s a route that both tests and teaches, making it an ideal step into harder sport climbing grades for eager climbers.

Located within a climbing area that thrives with vibrant crags amid towering granite, Out of the Darkness benefits from Squamish’s moderate weather and well-maintained approach trails. The accessibility via the Sea to Sky corridor places world-class climbing within reach, with reliable gear already in place—permadraws supplemented by an additional quickdraw at the first bolt streamline the lead experience.

This corridor sees varied conditions across seasons but tends to favor climbs in spring through fall when rain lets up and temperatures remain moderate. Morning ascents catch the wall in gentle shade, offering respite from afternoon heat, while late-day light casts rugged shadows that enhance the texture of the rock face.

For climbers aiming to push into 5.12 territory, Out of the Darkness delivers both a physical and mental test within a compact vertical frame. Its blend of technical moves, solid protection, and strategic rests build a rewarding rhythm and a tangible sense of accomplishment. Embarking here is as much about refining movement and hold-reading as it is about raw power—a thoughtful challenge amid one of Canada’s premier climbing landscapes.

Climber Safety

While the permadraws make protection straightforward, remain cautious at the crux—footing can be subtle and holds rely on good technique. Weather in the Sea to Sky corridor can shift quickly; avoid climbing when moisture is present on the rock to reduce slip risks. Approaching the route after rain requires extra care since the dihedral can trap residual dampness.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach the wall early to enjoy cooler shade and less crowded conditions.

Check weather forecasts—dry conditions are essential for reliable friction on the technical holds.

Bring plenty of water and a light meal to fuel focus and prevent fatigue.

Wear shoes with precise edging ability to maximize contact on small rails and edges.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.12a rating here is precise but approachable, offering a stiff challenge that rewards climbers who balance power with careful sequence reading. While the crux moves near the chains ramp up the intensity, the route benefits from generous positive holds and resting spots, making it more manageable than some comparably rated routes in the area. This climb sits well as a first 12a, bridging the gap between solid 5.11 trad and more strenuous sport climbs.

Gear Requirements

The route is fully equipped with permadraws, and climbers should bring an additional quickdraw for the first bolt. This setup ensures smooth clipping throughout the climb, allowing you to focus entirely on the technical moves without gear distractions.

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Tags

technical
dihedral
sport climbing
single pitch
5.12a
positive holds
rest spots
clipping stances