Tucked into the rugged contours of the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, the Original Route at Observatory Rock rewards climbers with a direct, hands-on encounter with solid granite climbing. This line starts in a deep, narrow slot roughly 50 feet left of the Wilford Roof, carving a distinct path that tests steady feet and sharp eyes for protection. As you squirm upward in the slot, the granite grips with a textured consistency, inviting careful placements and mindful movement. The crack and flake system to the right carries you through a series of gentle curves and subtle bulges, climbing that feels natural yet demanding in its precision. Expect about 65 feet of vertical granite before reaching a small tree that marks the top anchor, a logical stopping point for most parties.

Unlike lines that continue to the summit, this route chooses quality over quantity—a focused pitch that emphasizes technique and gear work over sheer endurance. The rock surface absorbs the textures of your hands and gear, with cams locking securely into the crack, making protection straightforward but imperative. The climbing rhythm here flows from tight stem moves to crack jamming and delicate balancing on smoothed edges, rewarding focus and respect for the rock.

Approaching the climb is a satisfying venture itself, with access via a short but gritty trail dipping into the canyon below Lyons, Colorado. The granite walls catch the afternoon sun, highlighting the natural chessboard pattern of fissures and flakes.

For trad climbers, this route sits comfortably at a 5.8 difficulty, engaging without overwhelming. It’s a hands-on journey through classic granite crack climbing that will appeal to those looking to sharpen their gear skills on authentic terrain, framed by the stillness of the canyon’s vertical walls and the occasional bird call echoing off stone.

Planning for this route means equipping a full rack of cams, particularly emphasizing sizes in the #1 to #3 Camalot range, where placements bite best. While wires might be optional, they can supplement tricky sections that demand a range of protection options. The route’s single pitch keeps logistics simple but precise—there’s no room for complacency in spotting pro on this granite.

Seasonally, late spring through early fall offers the best climbing window when weather is stable and rock surfaces dry quickly after morning moisture. The south-facing exposure generally warms under the sun, allowing for comfortable conditions but also urging climbers to start early to avoid mid-day heat.

Descending from the top tree anchor typically involves a single rappel or a careful downclimb to the base, with attention to loose rock and careful foot placements. The approach trail and terrain make for an accessible but focused day out, balancing adventure with solid climbing discipline. For those staking a claim on Southwest Colorado’s climbing legacy, Original Route remains a straightforward yet memorable test of skills and resolve.