"A striking orange lichen marks the line of Orange Corner, a bold 5.8 R trad climb in Boulder Canyon. Expect technical slab, a committing traverse, and delicate footwork on clean granite that rewards careful gear placements."
Orange Corner is a striking vertical streak, marked by a vibrant splash of orange lichen, that slices down the granite face of Boulder Canyon’s Blob Rock Area. This relatively short but technical one-pitch climb offers an intense experience for trad climbers ready to engage with subtle crimps, calculated footwork, and a high-stakes traverse that tests both resolve and movement precision. The climb starts deceptively with an unprotected slab section borrowed from the adjacent "Where Eagles Dare" route, demanding confident balance and steady nerves before veering right onto thin edges leading into a steep, committing corner.
Early on, good placements are available, primarily small to medium nuts and cams ranging from #2 TCU to #1 Camalot, but patience and careful gear selection are crucial before tackling the 10-foot rightward traverse beneath an overhang. Here, the route intensifies with its crux—a lunging, delicate move back left into the corner which requires refined footwork and confident commitment. The relief comes at a sizable jug clutching the corner’s inside, where climbers can shake off tension, clip into bomber protection, and prepare for the final ascent.
Beyond the crux, the corner straightens and widens, offering more secure placements as you climb to its top edge. At this point, the route links seamlessly with "Eagles Are People Too," adding a playful note of downclimbing a tricky move followed by a traverse out right on steep granite. The finish involves a satisfying mantel onto easier terrain, culminating in a 2-bolt anchor that feels well earned.
The setting itself is classic Boulder Canyon: granite walls that hold the sun’s warmth, forested approach paths humming softly with songbirds, and a quiet buzz of natural energy. The rock’s texture is clean yet gritty, demanding smooth technical execution rather than brute force. This climb, rated 5.8 R, commands respect for its runout sections but rewards climbers with a compact experience rich in movement variety and gear challenges.
Approach access is straightforward from the main trail in Boulder Canyon, with about 15 minutes of hiking along well-trodden paths marked clearly for Blob Rock. The trail crosses gentle forested slopes scattered with pine needles and the scent of earth after rain. Carry long slings to extend gear around edges, and be prepared for potentially awkward placements on the traverse and corner sections.
For anyone drawn to technical trad routes with a bold edge, Orange Corner presents a compelling climb that balances risk and reward effectively. With minimal traffic and raw granite beauty, this route invites climbers to sharpen their skills in a setting that feels both intimate and alive.
The route features runout sections and subtle protection placements early on; take care on the slab before the traverse to avoid ground falls. Long slings reduce gear drag, but runners placed at the traverse must be inspected carefully for security. The corner section holds solid gear, but the crux remains the most hazardous move.
Approach Blob Rock via Boulder Canyon trailhead, expect about 15 minutes hike on clear paths.
Bring long slings to avoid zippering on traverses and corner placements.
Climb carefully through the crux traverse—footwork precision is key to avoid falls.
Check rock condition before the overhang traverse, as some edges can feel slick after rain.
Small to medium nuts and cams between #2 TCU and #1 Camalot are essential; long slings are recommended for extending protection around corners and tricky traverse sections. The route finishes at a secure two-bolt anchor.
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