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Open Book Exam

Canmore, Canada
yellow rock
open book corner
technical footwork
bolt protected
single pitch
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Open Book Exam
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Open Book Exam offers climbers a demanding 5.12a single-pitch challenge on vibrant yellow and black rock in Alberta’s Bow Valley. With careful footwork and sharp focus, this sport climb pushes technique over brute force in a scenic mountain setting."

Open Book Exam

Carving a route through the bold cliffs of Carrot Creek, Open Book Exam challenges climbers with a single pitch of vertical sport climbing that demands precision and focus. Located in Alberta’s Bow Valley, this route climbs an open book corner composed of bright yellow rock that contrasts sharply against patches of dark basalt. The climb starts with a deceptive invitation to traverse the corner’s natural chimney, but savvy climbers will quickly recognize the route’s call to veer away from the obvious direct line, seeking a more technical and rewarding finish on the black rock above.

The climb’s 5.12a rating speaks to its demanding nature—a test of finger strength and foot placement more than brute force. The yellow stone is solid but requires careful attention to bolt-protected clips, making gear confidence essential throughout the ascent. A reliable quickdraw rack and steady nerves help keep the rhythm while your fingers register the subtly shifting holds. The rock’s textured surface offers enough friction to feel secure but demands a keen eye for the best edges and crimps.

The approach to Open Book Exam is straightforward and accessible, perched in a scenic Alberta setting where the forest’s fresh pine scent fills the air and distant river currents quietly urge forward. The trail to the base cuts through lightly wooded terrain and requires about a 20-minute hike from the nearest parking area, winding steadily upward with occasional stepping stones that remind you of the wildness around. GPS coordinates at 51.16118 N and -115.40522 W will guide you to this climbing pocket in Bow Valley, a well-known area attracting climbers who seek disciplined routes rather than sprawling crack systems.

Practical advice for tackling this climb includes timing your ascent for early morning or late afternoon to avoid the harsh midday sun. The rock heats quickly, making holds slick under sweaty palms. Wear well-fitting climbing shoes with a stiff sole to help edge on the demanding sections where balance overshadows brute strength. Hydrate well and pack lightweight layers; Bow Valley weather can shift swiftly, carrying cool mountain breezes at unexpected moments.

Local climbers appreciate the route for its clean bolts and the mental challenge of navigating a tight line without succumbing to the temptation of the obvious corner path. Its short length – just one pitch – makes it ideal for those who want a focused workout or a stepping stone to longer climbs nearby. While the route may seem unforgiving at first sight, it rewards commitment and careful footwork, offering a memorable experience that stays with you long after the final clip.

Descending is simple: a single rappel down the bolt anchors returns you quickly to the trailhead. The surrounding area, with rugged rock formations and stretches of quiet forest, invites reflection and a moment to soak in the crisp Alberta mountain air. Carrot Creek is not just another climb; it’s a place where rock meets resolve, and every move counts.

Climber Safety

Bolt spacing is consistent, but climbers should avoid falling at awkward spots in the chimney section where ledges are minimal. Rock is solid, but wet conditions can reduce friction significantly; approach with caution after rain.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the strong midday sun heating the rock surface.

Hydrate well and pack layers for shifting mountain temperatures.

Focus on precise foot placements to conserve energy on tricky moves.

Use a 60m rope for a smooth rappel back to the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.12a rating feels true to the effort required—holding on to small edges with climbing rhythm is crucial. The crux lies off the main corner, demanding controlled movements more than raw power. Compared to other Bow Valley sport routes, it sits at a moderate to stiff challenge, suitable for those comfortable with sustained technical moves.

Gear Requirements

Fully bolted climb requiring standard quickdraw sets. Focus on bolt clipping technique and awareness of bolt spacing. Bring shoes with stiff soles for edging on tighter holds.

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Tags

yellow rock
open book corner
technical footwork
bolt protected
single pitch