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Open Ass: The Elusive Challenge in Cañon de San Lorenzo

Saltillo, Coahuila Mexico
sport climbing
technical moves
short pitch
desert rock
subtle holds
mental challenge
sun exposure
Length: 30 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Open Ass
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Open Ass offers a cleverly deceptive 30-foot sport climb where subtle holds redefine the challenge. Located in the rugged beauty of Cañon de San Lorenzo, this route tests both balance and mental finesse with compact, technical moves."

Open Ass: The Elusive Challenge in Cañon de San Lorenzo

Open Ass stands out as a craftily demanding sport climb located at the far edge of the climbing zone in El Triángulo, within the dramatic landscapes of Cañon de San Lorenzo, Northern Mexico. This single-pitch route measures a compact 30 feet but refuses to be underestimated. Beginning with a deceptively simple slab, it lures you into a rhythm that quickly gives way to a puzzling sequence where holds seem to vanish before your eyes. The climb’s key challenge emerges after clipping the first two quickdraws—footholds dwindle, handholds hide, and the wall seems to toy with your expectations. The secret lies in a subtle side pull to the left, which defies the straightforward progression and forces you to adjust your tactics on the fly. Discovering this hidden hold transforms the crux into a manageable move, fostering a satisfying sense of victory over the climb’s cryptic nature.

The rock’s texture feels solid but requires confident smearing and balance more than raw power. Climbers should anticipate moments where their hands and feet will seek connection in unexpected places, inviting a mental puzzle alongside the physical effort. This blend of delicate footwork and strategic grabbing makes Open Ass an appealing option for those who enjoy a mental workout paired with concise exertion.

Situated in a remote section of Coahuila’s classic climbing areas, the route benefits from warm sun exposure throughout the day, ideal for afternoon sessions when the canyon basks fully in light. The approach is straightforward, dropping into a zone rich with other climbs but offering a somewhat quieter experience thanks to its location at the zone’s edge. Visualizing the route’s position and the surrounding canyon walls provides a quiet backdrop of rugged desert greenery and a cool breeze that occasionally sweeps in, reminding you of the wild frontier you are engaging.

Protection for the climb is simple but demands precision. With seven quickdraws sufficient to cover the wall, you’ll want to focus on clip placements, particularly around the crux where holds narrow. While the fixed anchors at the top are reliable, many climbers recommend exploring the better-established anchors slightly to the left for a smoother and safer rappel or lowering.

For visitors planning their trip, sturdy climbing shoes with excellent friction will pay off here, especially when searching out those demanding footholds. It’s wise to avoid overcrowded times and opt for midweek climbs to enjoy quieter conditions. Hydration remains important even on short routes, as the dry air and sun exposure can quickly sap energy. Weather is most favorable in the cooler months, yet the warmth in the sun during spring or fall afternoons balances comfort and performance.

Open Ass rewards a climber’s persistence and adaptability. It offers a rewarding challenge for those ready to read the rock beyond the obvious and decode its subtle prompts. This route isn’t about flash; it’s about engaged focus and clever movement in an environment that holds firm in its demands. Whether you’re stepping into sport climbing or seeking a sharpened experience along Northern Mexico’s climbing circuit, Open Ass invites you to test your precision in this quietly compelling canyon.

Climber Safety

Watch your clip placements near the crux where hold options narrow significantly. Anchors are secure but opting for the leftward ones reduces rappel risk. Be mindful of the dry environment and bring enough water to avoid dehydration during your approach and descent.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Bring shoes with sticky rubber to handle the subtle footholds.

Avoid weekends to beat the crowd and enjoy a quieter climb.

Start climbing in the afternoon when the wall is bathed in warm sunlight.

Hydrate well before climbing to offset the dry canyon air.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10b/c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10b/c rating feels appropriately challenging, with the crux demanding careful body positioning rather than raw power. Some climbers find the grade soft due to the hold scarcity and reliance on balance, making it a unique entry for anyone wanting to sharpen technical skills compared to other local routes that lean more on strength.

Gear Requirements

The route requires seven quickdraws to navigate the wall safely. Anchors at the top are solid but exploring the slightly leftward anchors is recommended for improved rappelling setups.

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Tags

sport climbing
technical moves
short pitch
desert rock
subtle holds
mental challenge
sun exposure