"One Move Wonder is a compact trad route on Yukon’s Grey Mountain, known for its technical opening move protected by a single bolt and sustained crack climbing that demands smart gear placement. It’s a focused, rewarding climb for those seeking solitude and precision on wild northern granite."
One Move Wonder is a sharp, single-pitch trad climb carved into the rugged granite faces of Grey Mountain in Yukon Territory. This route demands a focused start—its namesake move challenges your technique and nerves right off the bat. You'll find a lone bolt protecting this initial move, which leads into a leftward crack demanding solid gear placements and steady hands. The crack itself feels alive beneath your fingers, stretching upward with just enough irregularities to test your rack and finesse in equal measure. Once past the crack, the climb eases into a balancing act on slabby rock, nudging you left and then right as you hunt for protection—which dwindles quickly here. From this point onward, runners must commit to confident climbing with sparse gear until reaching the anchored chains atop the 49-foot pitch.
Set against the vast wilderness of the Yukon, this climb offers not just physical challenge but an immersive encounter with raw northern granite. The approach meanders through open, alpine terrain where the crisp air heightens your senses, and the silence is punctuated only by distant calls of wildlife and wind sweeping the ridge. With no crowds and a modest star rating, One Move Wonder feels like a private adventure, perfect for those who appreciate precision and subtlety in crack climbing. Gear up with a solid trad rack focused on cams for the offering crack, and be prepared for a run-out section that rewards calm judgment and steady footwork.
Grey Mountain itself stands as a quiet watershed, with its lofty slopes capturing both sun and shadow throughout the day. The route’s west-facing wall warms in morning light making early climbs crisp but pleasant. Late in the season, expect cool air to sharpen your focus and call for layered clothing. The descent follows a straightforward rappel — just enough to keep you alert after the climb and independent of complicated walk-offs.
For climbers eyeing this route, timing and preparation are key. Bring footwear that balances grip and sensitivity, and pack water to stay hydrated in the dry mountain air. The single bolt offers a reassuring start, but beyond that, your gear placements must be confident and well-placed. Unlike crowded sport walls, One Move Wonder invites you to interact deeply with the rock, trusting your protection skills as you move upward. Whether you're pushing your trad grades or seeking a fresh experience in the Yukon’s wild highlands, this climb offers a compact but potent encounter with northern granite.
After the protected crack section, gear options vanish and climbers must commit to runout climbing on relatively easy holds. Rock quality is solid but be mindful of trusting your foot placements on the slab. Always wear a helmet and manage your rope carefully during the rappel descent to avoid abrasion on exposed edges.
Approach via the Back Alley trailhead with a well-marked path through alpine tundra; expect about 30 minutes hiking.
Bring a full cam rack sized for medium to large cracks—the main crack takes good pro.
Climb early morning to avoid afternoon heat on the slab sections, which can get slick with moisture.
Rappel from fixed anchors at the top; always double-check rap rings before descent.
Start protected by one bolt, then rely on placing cams in a well-defined crack that demands solid placements. Beyond the crack, protection becomes scarce, requiring confidence in run-out climbing to the anchors.
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