"One for the Red Team offers a rugged single pitch on Zowie’s south face, blending alpine trad climbing with a moderate 5.8 challenge. Expect a moss-clad start that opens to fun jams and a tricky move near a large unstable block—making this route a memorable test of skill and caution."
One for the Red Team climbs the rugged south face of Zowie within Rocky Mountain National Park, offering a raw slice of alpine trad climbing that challenges and rewards in equal measures. Approaching from the south, your eyes catch the distinct chimney marking the west side of the face, but the crux and intrigue lie primarily in the large, left-facing dihedral just west of the well-traveled "flatiron" variation. This route bears the hallmarks of an alpine adventure—unpolished rock, moss remnants, and a subtle dance between security and exposure.
The first 15 feet ask for cautious movement; slipping holds are often moss-covered and slippery, demanding delicate footwork and a sharp eye. But soon enough, the route opens into more reliable stone and engaging jams that invite you into the heart of the dihedral. With foot placements spread confidently on available edges, the climb stays moderate, rarely pushing beyond a gentle challenge at 5.8.
Progressing upward, you’ll stem and jam through overhangs and grooves, feeling the rock’s personality as it stretches 100 feet skyward. The dihedral seems to guard its secrets but rewards persistence with steady moves and solid protection placements, thanks to excellent crack features. The grade's mellow character belies the need for focus, particularly as you approach a sharp move stepping left toward the arete—mindful here of the sizeable, unstable block resting on a nearby ledge that demands care and respect.
Protection-wise, a varied rack to #4 Camalot combined with a full set of stoppers will keep you confident throughout the pitch. Though some gear placements might be less straightforward, the rock quality beyond the initial moss patching is sound and enjoyable. A belay ledge near the end of the dihedral allows for a breather before continuing to the summit via the south face standard route.
This single pitch offers a genuine alpine trad experience where nature’s rough edges remain evident. It’s not a polished sport climb, but its rawness carries its own appeal—perfect for climbers comfortable with alpine conditions and eager to engage a route that asks as much for mental patience as physical strength. Keep an eye on the weather and aim for early starts to take advantage of stable conditions, as the terrain can quickly become treacherous with moisture. Hiking in sturdy boots with sticky soles will keep your approach steady, as the approach trail skirts forested slopes and loose ground.
Climbers seeking an approachable alpine crack with tangible character will find One for the Red Team a worthy introduction to Zowie’s south face. The blend of mossy nuances, solid jams, and the looming arete with its cautionary block makes for a climb that’s as much about reading the rock as pulling on it. With a modest grade and a moderate commitment, this pitch invites you to push your limits gently while soaking in the uncompromising alpine setting of Colorado’s high country.
Exercise caution around the large block perched precariously near the arete; avoid direct pressure and stay alert for loose rock. The initial mossy section requires extra care, as wet surfaces can be slick and unstable.
Start early to avoid afternoon storms common in the Rockies.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for secure footing on mossy sections.
Monitor the large block near the arete—avoid putting weight on it or dislodging it.
Hydrate well before the climb; the approach crosses exposed alpine terrain with limited shade.
Bring a complete rack of cams up to a #4 Camalot and a full set of stoppers. The route features solid crack protection after the initial mossy moves, but placements can be tricky near the arete. Backup gear and careful placement improve security.
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