"One Crack Mind offers a focused, technical crack climb on Dihedral Wall that tests your gear placements and crack technique over a single solid pitch. Set in the wild Yukon landscape, it combines straightforward approach with sustained challenge and reliable protection."
One Crack Mind on Dihedral Wall stands as a compelling test for climbers seeking a precise blend of crack climbing finesse and route-finding savvy within Yukon Territory’s rugged expanse. This single 92-foot pitch demands attention from start to finish, inviting you to read the rock and place protection with tact along its steadily rising splits. Approaching slightly left of a solitary tree at the base, you encounter parallel cracks ideal for bomber gear placements—anchors for confidence in an exposed setting. The route then leads to a small ledge where a careful right traverse positions you beneath the route’s defining feature: a sustained hand and fist crack that ascends through fresh air and grippy granite.
Experience the tactile pleasure of hand jams, where every lock and shift matters, alongside strategic placements of medium to large cams (#3 through #5). The crack thins near the upper section, opening a door to face climbing techniques that stretch your creativity and balance. These moves demand polish and steady footwork—no room for hesitation as exposure unfolds.
This climb entices with its raw blend of power and finesse, set against a backdrop of northern wilderness that encourages presence in the moment. The granite’s texture seems to respond under your hands, the crack daring you up while the cold mountain breeze pushes softly from the valley below. Golden Canyon's remote environment adds a layer of solitude that heightens the experience without sacrificing safety.
Gear is critical: a standard rack packed with double or even triple sets of mid to large cams keeps your climb protected and your mind clear. The top anchors are fixed and reliable, offering a sense of secure completion before you descend.
Whether you’re escaping for a day of focused climbing or building cracks skills on a memorable Yukon climb, One Crack Mind promises a straightforward yet invigorating challenge. Approach with solid footwork, a respect for protection placements, and awareness of the elements, and this route becomes an unforgettable highlight of any northern climbing trip.
Watch for tricky gear placements early on; doubled cam sizes are essential as smaller placements can be sparse. The granite is stable but can be slick if damp, so plan climbs during dry conditions for optimal friction. The approach has uneven terrain—good boots and caution are advised.
Start slightly left of the lone tree at the base for the best gear placements.
Use a mix of hand and fist jams to conserve energy on the sustained crack.
Prepare for face climbing moves near the top where the crack narrows.
Plan your approach early—the trail is rough and requires careful footing.
Bring a standard rack focused on doubles (and possibly triples) of medium to large cams (#3, #4, #5) to ensure solid protection throughout the crack system. The route’s anchors are fixed and reliable.
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