"On the Edge cuts a crisp line along a bolted arete at Mr. Bojangles Wall, offering a focused 5.10d sport climb with compact exposure. This single-pitch challenge fits perfectly for climbers seeking sharp technical moves framed by Ontario’s striking limestone landscape."
On the Edge presents a concise yet punchy sport climb that commands attention on Mr. Bojangles Wall, perched within the rugged expanse of Lion's Head, Ontario South Bouldering and Rock. This single-pitch gem challenges climbers with a 5.10d rating, demanding both technical finesse and commitment on its bolted arete. Arriving at the clifftop, look for the painted "Mr. B" marking the dihedral—a signal for the rappel to the hanging belay below. From there, the route ventures right onto the sharp bolted arete, where footholds sharpen and body positioning becomes critical. The rock here is solid, typical of Lion’s Head limestone, yet every move calls for careful attention due to the steepness and subtle holds.
Accessing the wall requires a short approach through forests that embrace the crag, with the air carrying hints of pine and fresh earth, grounding you before the vertical push begins. With only one pitch, this climb is accessible to those looking to push their sport climbing limits without the complexity of multiple pitches. The bolted protection is straightforward, ensuring safety but also reinforcing the need for clean clipping and steady nerves along exposed sections. Given the location on Ontario’s southern-facing cliffs, early morning or late afternoon sessions offer the best light and temperature to avoid mid-day heat.
Whether you’re an enthusiastic sport climber looking to tame the arete or a local seeking a crisp challenge under familiar skies, On the Edge delivers a satisfying blend of exposure and precise movement. Be prepared with efficient clipping, solid edging shoes, and hydration close at hand—the route’s intensity demands focus and physical readiness. Despite its single pitch, the climb feels layered with texture, offering fleeting glimpses of Georgian Bay and the rolling landscape beyond. This route is a practical test of skill that rewards those willing to engage with Ontario’s limestone walls where sharp edges meet steady hands.
The rappel anchor marked at the dihedral requires careful rope management; confirm stability before descending. The exposed nature of the arete means falls should be controlled to avoid swing injuries. Check weather conditions to avoid slippery rock from rain or frost.
Locate the "Mr. B" painted dihedral to find the rappel anchor.
Approach through forested trails—wear sturdy shoes for uneven terrain.
Best climbed during morning or late afternoon to avoid peak sun.
Stay focused on clipping on the arete; falls here could swing into exposed rock.
Fully bolted climb requiring sport draws; clipping efficiency is key on the exposed arete. Standard harness gear recommended, no additional trad gear needed.
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