"Oh Face presents a focused 60-foot trad climb on Neanderthal Wall, combining delicate balance moves on sandy cobblestone holds with more juggy finishing terrain. A classic single pitch for climbers seeking straightforward protection and Colorado’s striking sandstone backdrop."
Oh Face stands as a straightforward yet compelling climb right of Hanson's Folly on Neanderthal Wall within Castlewood Canyon State Park. This single-pitch route, stretching 60 feet, invites climbers into a balanced mix of technical moves and approachable terrain, all seasoned with the rough charm of Colorado sandstone. The approach places you in a striking canyon environment, where the red rock walls rise steeply and the whisper of the nearby forest conveys a calm that contrasts the focus needed on the rock.
As you begin, the climb presents a subtly demanding start, where your footing requires deliberate placement on cobblestone-sized features peppered with sandy patches. This opening section may challenge balance and body tension, setting the tone for a route that rewards steady composure over brute force. Moving upward, the middle portion eases into a pseudo-dihedral—a shallow corner that carves a natural groove for hands and feet alike, demanding fluid movement and technical finesse. The finish leans into a jug-friendly scramble, providing a satisfying conclusion as you reach the two anchor bolts waiting atop the ledge.
Originally protected only by these anchor bolts, recent additions include several retrobolts complementing the existing gear, while space between these bolts allows for traditional placements. This blend means climbers should prepare for a trad lead experience, bringing standard rack gear and confidence in placing sparse but solid protection. The granite’s texture, with its cobblestone holds and gritty face, demands rubber that can handle a mix of edging and smearing, especially near the route’s crux at the start.
Castlewood Canyon itself gives this climb a setting rich with outdoor ambiance. The canyon’s forested rim casts shifting shade depending on the time of day, while dry creek beds recall the occasional rush of water after seasonal rains. Timing your ascent for early morning or late afternoon offers ideal light and cooler rock temperatures during Colorado’s warmest months. The climb’s south-facing aspect means the late afternoon sun can warm the lower sections, making cooler seasons most appealing.
Accessing Neanderthal Wall involves a moderate hike from the Castlewood South parking area. The trail winds through dusty paths and scattered junipers, taking roughly 20 minutes over uneven ground with some elevation gain. GPS coordinates place the route at latitude 39.35202 and longitude -104.76843, providing reliable guidance for navigation. Plan your approach to avoid peak heat, and wear sturdy boots since the terrain can be loose and uneven.
For descent, the route calls for a straightforward rappel from the two anchor bolts. It's important to double-check your anchors and bring extra cord or webbing, as the retrobolts and gear placements vary in spacing. Descending directly into the canyon requires attention to footing, especially when the rock surface is dusty or after light rain.
Whether you’re brushing up on your balance or looking for a short, engaging trad challenge in a scenic Colorado park, Oh Face offers a blend of accessible complexity and outdoor character. The route suits climbers comfortable with moderate traditional protection and eager to experience one of Castlewood Canyon’s lesser-traveled lines. With its mix of technical sections and juggy top-out, it’s a rewarding introduction to the Neanderthal Wall’s distinct sandstone features.
Sand can reduce friction on cobblestone holds, especially early on—approach the start with care. The anchor bolts are spaced widely; confirm solid gear placements before trusting protection. The rappel requires attention to rope length and secure attachments, as the descent drops directly into steep terrain.
Approach in early morning or late afternoon for the best rock temperature and lighting.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber that handle a mix of edging and smearing well.
Double-check retrobolts and gear placements before trusting them fully.
Bring extra cord or webbing for a reliable rappel from the two anchor bolts.
Bring a standard traditional rack; the route has retrobolts and gear placements between anchors. Prepare for widely spaced protection and be ready to place solid cams and nuts in sandstone with some caution due to sandy cobblestones.
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