Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingObsession

Obsession Trad Climb at Esler Bluffs

Williams Lake, Canada
trad crack
overhang
single bolt
short pitch
forest access
British Columbia
Length: 25 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Obsession
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Obsession is a steep, single-pitch trad climb on Esler Bluffs near Williams Lake. Featuring a crack and an overhanging corner, it combines technical gear placements with a bold bolt safeguarding the crux, all in a wild yet accessible forested setting."

Obsession Trad Climb at Esler Bluffs

Obsession stands as a striking single-pitch trad route carved into the rugged faces of Esler Bluffs, just beyond Williams Lake on British Columbia's Interior Plateau. This 25-foot climb invites you into a focused dance alongside an overhanging corner and a clean crack that challenges both your technical skill and mental resolve. The route begins with a carefully navigated crack system, demanding precise hand and finger jams before reaching a bold single bolt—a rare fixed reminder that protection choices here matter. Above the bolt, the route pushes upward along sustained crack climbing, requiring steady commitment until you reach the anchor station perched over the lip.

The rocky outcrop of Esler Bluffs lies at 52.11 degrees north latitude and -122.26 degrees longitude, where the forested plateau stretches quietly around the climbing walls. The area offers a sense of remote solitude, framed by towering pines whose needles rustle softly in the breeze, while birdsong weaves through the air, easing climbers' tension below. Although short in length, the route's 5.10c grade demands precise footwork and confident gear placements, making it an excellent technical challenge for trad climbers craving a concentrated burst of movement.

Protection on Obsession is purely gear-based, calling for a well-rounded rack with small to medium cams that can fit the various crack widths and the tricky placements near the overhang. The bolt provides some peace of mind but isn't to be relied on as a primary safeguard; careful gear assessment and steady placements are essential. The stone quality is solid, but occasional lichen patches highlight the need for cautious handholds and foot placements.

Getting to the base is a straightforward approach, taking roughly 20 minutes on a maintained trail through conifer woods – expect some loose rock near the base but nothing that disrupts an easy warm-up session. Williams Lake is the nearest town, offering all logistical essentials, from supplies to guidance, making Esler Bluffs an accessible slice of wilderness for locals and visiting climbers alike.

Careful planning around hydration and timing will enhance your experience—mornings bring clearer light and cooler rock, while afternoon sun can bake the wall and test your grip endurance. Footwear with sticky rubber and moderate stiffness will pay dividends on the crack placements and tricky mantle onto the anchor ledge.

Obsession embodies a sharp balance of adventure and practicality: it invites you to engage technically with its overhang and crack features but rewards this with an anchored finish and manageable approach. For climbers ready to push their trad skills on a concise wall with wilderness ambience, this route offers a memorable day out that tests both body and strategy.

Climber Safety

Though the route features one bolt, comprehensive gear placements are crucial. The rock is mostly stable but watch for lichen on holds that can reduce friction. The approach trail has some loose debris near the base; take care entering the climb, especially when wearing approach shoes.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length25 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the afternoon heat on the wall and maximize rock friction.

Bring sticky rubber shoes for better grip in the crack system and on the overhung sections.

Check weather forecasts carefully—wet rock quickly reduces safety and friction.

Use a standard rack with cams sized for thin finger cracks to medium offwidths near the anchor.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating feels right in the pocket: it’s a technically demanding route with a sharp crux at the overhang that requires clean gear and confident moves. This climb won’t surprise experienced 5.10 climbers but rewards good crack technique and composure. Compared to nearby routes on Esler’s walls, Obsession presents a concentrated challenge, neither soft nor overly stiff, ideal for skill sharpening.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack emphasizing small to medium cams; placements near the overhang require thoughtful gear choices. The route includes one bolt for occasional reassurance but relies on solid gear placements throughout.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Obsession and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad crack
overhang
single bolt
short pitch
forest access
British Columbia