"O climbs a short, vertical face in The Laboratory at Devil's Head. With its modest 5.8 rating and clean bolts, it's the perfect warm-up route to prepare for more intense climbs in this iconic Colorado climbing area."
Set against the raw, jagged backdrop of Devil's Head within Colorado's South Platte region, the route 'O' offers a concise yet satisfying introduction to the sport climbing scattered through The Laboratory’s Devil's Gate Sector. This brief, thirty-foot climb traces a clean, vertical face punctuated by three well-placed bolts, guiding you steadily upward to a shared anchor. As you start your ascent, the rock seems to breathe beneath your fingertips, inviting you to find rhythm in its textured surface. The climb’s approachable grade of 5.8 makes it a reliable warm-up, easing climbers’ nerves before venturing into the more demanding challenges nearby.
The route’s position as the second from the right on the sector's face provides a clear line that encourages focus on balance and footwork rather than brute strength. Sunlight often plays upon the wall, offering warmth during cooler Colorado mornings while casting crisp shadows that highlight every hold, creating a tactile map to follow. The approach to The Laboratory is direct, with well-worn trails threading through open pine stands and rocky outcrops, allowing your senses to soak in the dry mountain air punctuated by bird calls and distant rustling.
Protection is straightforward—three bolts spaced for confident clipping and an anchored finish. The rock’s solid nature means placements hold firm, reducing worries about loose or fragile rock. While the route’s short length means a quick climb, it serves a crucial role in your day’s sequence, sharpening focus and loosening muscles for longer routes in the area.
Plan your outing with the afternoon sun at your back, which improves visibility and reduces glare on the rock. Bring standard sport climbing gear including quickdraws, a helmet, and shoes with good edging capability. Hydration is key here; the dry Colorado air demands attention to water intake, especially in summer months. Also, consider starting early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms that sweep through the region during warmer seasons.
The Laboratory itself is a realm of exposed granite and sculpted faces, prized both for its accessibility and diversity of climbs. Though 'O' is modest in length and challenge, it echoes the area’s spirit—technical yet inviting, quieter than the bustling popular crags yet offering a solid climbing experience for both novices and those tuning up. At the end of your climb, the descent is simple with a straightforward rappel or downclimb to the base, making it easy to transition between climbs.
Whether you’re a first-timer acquainting yourself with sport routes or an experienced climber setting your sights on more demanding lines, 'O' provides a practical, focused start embedded in a landscape that commands respect and inspires focus. Its balance of approachable movement, reliable protection, and clear access delivers a slice of Colorado’s climbing essence that keeps you grounded and ready for what’s next.
While the rock is solid and protection reliable, always double-check your anchors before climbing. The approach trails are well-marked but watch for loose gravel near the base. Avoid climbing in wet or stormy conditions, as the granite can become slick and hazardous.
Approach early in the morning to enjoy cooler temperatures and quieter trails.
Keep your hydration levels up as the dry mountain air can quickly drain your energy.
Use climbing shoes with solid edging to navigate the subtle foot holds on the clean granite face.
Be mindful of afternoon weather changes; summer storms in the South Platte area can arrive fast.
Three bolts secure the route, spaced to ensure efficient clipping and reliable protection on the vertical face. Bring standard quickdraws for these fixed points and a rope for a straightforward single-pitch rappel.
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