Nubbin Trad Climb on Main Face, Avalon Peninsula

St. John's, Canada
trad climbing
single pitch
crack
nut placements
Newfoundland climbing
moderate approach
bouldery start
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Nubbin
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Nubbin challenges you with a boulder-style launch that opens into a delicate seam climb topped by a unique nubbin hold. This solid 60-foot trad route blends technical crack moves with secure protection, offering a rewarding single-pitch test on Newfoundland’s remote Avalon Peninsula."

Nubbin Trad Climb on Main Face, Avalon Peninsula

Nubbin offers a focused and gritty trad climb where the rock’s texture commands respect and every move counts. Starting with a boulder-problem style launch, a well-placed cheat stone at the base eases the initial push. Moving up and diagonally right, climbers encounter a newly installed bolt that guards the entry into a clean, distinctive seam. This seam, a slender crack etched into the face, demands steady, balanced jamming and delicate footwork, inviting climbers to trust their gear and their technique as the crack gradually thins out. As the seam dissipates, another bolt marks a transition zone, and the route continues directly upward, giving an unobstructed view of the nubbin-shaped hold on the wall’s surface—a playful feature that draws both hands and imagination. The final moves lead to a two-bolt rappel anchor offering a reliable descent.

Situated on the Main Face of Flatrock in the Avalon Peninsula, this 60-foot climb blends straightforward gear placements with a subtle technical challenge at 5.10c. The sandstone offers a solid grip with plenty of quality nut placements, especially for pro up to 3 inches. While a single pitch doesn’t demand a massive gear haul, climbers will appreciate the thoughtful protection and the steady exposure as they negotiate the seam. Nubbin strikes a balance between technical crack climbing and face moves, making it ideal for experienced trad climbers seeking a brief but memorable push in a less crowded corner of Newfoundland.

Accessing the climb offers an easy approach with moderate terrain cutting through open terrain and low brush, making the walk-in quick and accessible for a full day of climbing or a half-day outing. The area’s northern latitude means the wall receives balanced sun exposure, shading in the later afternoon—a detail to consider when planning climbs during warmer months. Weather here shifts quickly, so layered clothing and hydration are critical.

Whether you’re aiming to sharpen crack climbing skills or add a solid 5.10c to your portfolio, Nubbin provides a compact, no-nonsense experience where the rock’s personality guides your ascent. Gear up for the climb with a standard rack, emphasize good nut placements, and be ready to read the subtle transitions from seam to face with calm precision as you push past the nubbin feature toward your rappel finish.

Climber Safety

While the bolts offer solid security points, the route’s exposure and boulder-y start mean that climbers should be cautious with their placements and mindful of rope drag. The rock is generally sound, but watch out for loose grit near the base—clean the holds before trusting them.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Bring a gear rack with solid nuts and cams up to 3 inches for confident placements.

Use the cheat stone at the base to avoid over-committing on the bouldery start.

Plan your climb during morning or early afternoon for the best lighting and temperature on the wall.

Check weather forecasts carefully—Avalon Peninsula conditions can shift rapidly, especially in shoulder seasons.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating sits firmly within the moderate advanced range, with the initial boulder move requiring power and precise technique. The seam climbing feels solid and well-protected, but the thin crack near the top demands attention to detail. Compared to other local routes, Nubbin's grade is consistent but feels punchier on the opening moves.

Gear Requirements

Standard rack to 3 inches, with excellent nut placements throughout. A cheat stone at the start simplifies the boulder move, and fixed bolts provide key protection at critical junctures.

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Tags

trad climbing
single pitch
crack
nut placements
Newfoundland climbing
moderate approach
bouldery start