"Notably Gnarly is a tight and technical 45-foot sport climb at Jones Road Cliff, featuring a key crux just past the shared start with Tito Puentes Latin Mambo. It offers focused climbing on solid granite in a quiet northern Ontario setting."
At Jones Road Cliff, just a short drive from Kenora, Ontario, Notably Gnarly offers a sharp, thrilling climb that demands focus from the first move. This single-pitch sport route stretches 45 feet up a textured face marked by a prominent feature that immediately grabs your attention. Climbers begin on the same holds as Tito Puentes Latin Mambo, then diverge, tracing a subtle line leftward and upward that quickly reveals the climb's defining test: a crux that challenges even seasoned 5.10d aficionados.
The cliff faces north-east, catching morning light and providing excellent conditions through the spring and early summer, before afternoon shadows stretch across the rock. The granite here is solid, offering reliable friction and clean edges, but the precision required around the key feature means steady footwork and body positioning are essential. Six bolts protect the route, spaced to balance security with a sense of adventure, inviting climbers to trust their gear but also their technique.
Jones Road Cliff is an accessible destination with a short, straightforward approach. Vegetation around the base hums with quiet forest life, and the stillness adds a layer of calm that contrasts with the focused energy the climb demands. The surrounding landscape frames the experience—a sprawling northern Ontario wilderness, where rugged terrain meets serene pockets of natural quiet. This combination of environment and challenge makes Notably Gnarly a compelling choice for climbers looking to push their limits on solid, well-protected rock.
Bringing the right gear is simple: a standard sport rack with quickdraws matched to 6-bolt protection is all that’s needed here. The route’s short length means a single rope and sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber will suffice. Avoid attempting the climb when rain lingers or frost coats the rock, as moisture can dull the granite’s grip.
For those preparing to make the push on Notably Gnarly, focus on warming up your fingers and wrists thoroughly, as the crux move demands both strength and control. Timing your climb for mid-morning to avoid slippery dew and catch optimal light can improve both safety and enjoyment. Post-climb, the area offers quiet spots to relax and take in the surrounding forest’s subtle sounds, making for a full experience that extends beyond the redpoint.
While the route’s protection is solid with six bolts, pay attention to footing especially near the crux where granite edges narrow. The cliff’s north-east aspect means mornings are best to avoid moisture, reducing slip risk. Loose rocks near the base require careful footing on approach and descent.
Warm up fingers carefully to prepare for the powerful crux move.
Start climbs mid-morning to avoid damp conditions that affect grip.
Approach is short and clear but watch for loose stones near the base.
Avoid climbing during or after rain; wet granite reduces friction significantly.
Six bolts lead to comfortable anchors, meaning a quickdraw rack matching the bolt count is essential. Bring shoes with sticky rubber to maximize friction on the granite face, and a rope of 60 meters or more to ensure safe top rope or lead climbs.
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